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Jerry-rigging a passive crossover
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<blockquote data-quote="enzowho" data-source="post: 2553003" data-attributes="member: 568136"><p>You can go <a href="http://www.carstereo.com/help/calc_cr.cfm" target="_blank">here</a> to determine cap/inductor values you need to build a crossover. From what I found, the crossover point is 3500kHz at -18db/oct. I personally would not recommend building them though. First off, it isn't cheap (figure 6 inductors at $4-12 a piece, 6 caps are $.50-3 a piece, several L-pad resistors at $1 a piece, soldering iron $10....) Also, if you have never soldered before, they might be prone to breaking.</p><p></p><p>I would personally recommend instead searching for another pair of crossovers on forums/ebay. I would not recommend picking up a random crossover, but one that is made specifically for your driver (if there's a 6.5" or a 5.25" version that <em>might</em> work too). The reason for that is (1) you can blow tweeters if they are crossed over too low (2) it could sound pretty bad if its at a bad crossover point and (3) crossover points are dependent upon the resistance (so you might think you are getting the right crossover point when you aren't). The other option is going active, but as you mentioned above you don't want to do that. Good luck, hope you can find something.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="enzowho, post: 2553003, member: 568136"] You can go [URL="http://www.carstereo.com/help/calc_cr.cfm"]here[/URL] to determine cap/inductor values you need to build a crossover. From what I found, the crossover point is 3500kHz at -18db/oct. I personally would not recommend building them though. First off, it isn't cheap (figure 6 inductors at $4-12 a piece, 6 caps are $.50-3 a piece, several L-pad resistors at $1 a piece, soldering iron $10....) Also, if you have never soldered before, they might be prone to breaking. I would personally recommend instead searching for another pair of crossovers on forums/ebay. I would not recommend picking up a random crossover, but one that is made specifically for your driver (if there's a 6.5" or a 5.25" version that [I]might[/I] work too). The reason for that is (1) you can blow tweeters if they are crossed over too low (2) it could sound pretty bad if its at a bad crossover point and (3) crossover points are dependent upon the resistance (so you might think you are getting the right crossover point when you aren't). The other option is going active, but as you mentioned above you don't want to do that. Good luck, hope you can find something. [/QUOTE]
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