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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8883576" data-attributes="member: 614752">What is your objective here?&nbsp;&nbsp; Are you chasing numbers on the Termlab?&nbsp; Listening to music?&nbsp;&nbsp; Or just attempting to make your 1000/1 deliver 1000W?&nbsp;&nbsp; Stop and really think about this before getting hung up on any of this and then consider making another thread like &quot;How to I gain on the meter?&quot; or &quot;How to I get my music to sound louder?&quot;The way a loudspeaker works is it&#039;s a complex circuit and impedance changes with frequency.&nbsp; So your &quot;2 ohm&quot; sub may be 2 ohms at 40hz then 8 ohms at 55hz.&nbsp; Impedance plot of a woofer in a ported box will look like some sort of misshapen cursive letter m with a low tail on the left and a tail rising up to infinity on the right.&nbsp;&nbsp; If you are playing more than 1 frequency through it you impedance will be all over the place between z-min (which may possibly be even lower than nominal impedance of your woofer) and on the high side seeing 4-6x nominal impedance at some frequencies wouldn&#039;t be unusual.&nbsp; The way those &quot;smart&quot; amps are typically meant to work is that once they sense low impedance they&#039;ll drop the rail voltage so that they don&#039;t blow themselves up, so if it never sees below 4 ohms (or wherever they actually built in the switch) it&#039;ll be running in a mode that will produce 1000W into your 4 ohms, but once your impedance dips below 4 ohms once it will put you in low rail voltage mode where it&#039;ll only be able to make the 1000W into 2 ohms but it won&#039;t get damaged by trying to shift on the fly as your music constantly bounces around over and under whatever impedance is safe to run at the higher voltage.&nbsp;&nbsp; Put another way, you may be able to &quot;trick&quot; this amp into making 1000W at one specific frequency using a 2 ohm (nominal) sub but it isn&#039;t going to accomplish a whole lot for you outside that one frequency and as others have explained you will very probably gain less than 2 clicks of the volume knob even at that one note.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8883576, member: 614752"] What is your objective here? Are you chasing numbers on the Termlab? Listening to music? Or just attempting to make your 1000/1 deliver 1000W? Stop and really think about this before getting hung up on any of this and then consider making another thread like "How to I gain on the meter?" or "How to I get my music to sound louder?" The way a loudspeaker works is it's a complex circuit and impedance changes with frequency. So your "2 ohm" sub may be 2 ohms at 40hz then 8 ohms at 55hz. Impedance plot of a woofer in a ported box will look like some sort of misshapen cursive letter m with a low tail on the left and a tail rising up to infinity on the right. If you are playing more than 1 frequency through it you impedance will be all over the place between z-min (which may possibly be even lower than nominal impedance of your woofer) and on the high side seeing 4-6x nominal impedance at some frequencies wouldn't be unusual. The way those "smart" amps are typically meant to work is that once they sense low impedance they'll drop the rail voltage so that they don't blow themselves up, so if it never sees below 4 ohms (or wherever they actually built in the switch) it'll be running in a mode that will produce 1000W into your 4 ohms, but once your impedance dips below 4 ohms once it will put you in low rail voltage mode where it'll only be able to make the 1000W into 2 ohms but it won't get damaged by trying to shift on the fly as your music constantly bounces around over and under whatever impedance is safe to run at the higher voltage. Put another way, you may be able to "trick" this amp into making 1000W at one specific frequency using a 2 ohm (nominal) sub but it isn't going to accomplish a whole lot for you outside that one frequency and as others have explained you will very probably gain less than 2 clicks of the volume knob even at that one note. [/QUOTE]

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