Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
issues with install...
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="agarabaghi" data-source="post: 7502962" data-attributes="member: 632013"><p>first of all, this is in a boat.</p><p></p><p>Equipment list:</p><p></p><p>WetSound Syn 6 (6ch amp)</p><p></p><p>Cadence A7 HC sub block amp</p><p></p><p>JL m2150 sub amp</p><p></p><p>(1) Optima blue top battery</p><p></p><p>(1) Excide Orbital battery</p><p></p><p>(1) Positive distribution block</p><p></p><p>(1) Negative distribution block</p><p></p><p>150amp breaker, 135amp breaker</p><p></p><p>100amp Battery Doctor Isolator</p><p></p><p>Well now that ive re-wired everything im having a weird electrical issue, so im sure it must be something in my wiring. Ive had all 3 amps in the boat before and this never happened, so unless my Alt is starting to die and act funny Im pretty sure its in the wiring.</p><p></p><p>So here is the setup, 3 amps, 2 batteries, 100amp "Battery Doctor" Isolator.</p><p></p><p>Right now I have</p><p></p><p>Starting battery - 0/1 awg positive and negative from the engine block / start to crank the boat, along with the 4awg positive and negative from the dash (power bilge, dash, lights, and ballast.</p><p></p><p>From the starting battery a positive terminal a wire runs to the "Main" connector on the Battery Doctor isolator. From "Aux" terminal on the battery doctor it goes to a 150amp breaker and then to the positive terminal on the AUX battery. The positive terminal feeds a 135amp breaker, which then feeds a distribution block, and each amp connects to that.</p><p></p><p>From the starting battery negative terminal, a wire runs to the negative terminal on the AUX battery, which then feeds the negative distribution block, and the amp negatives are fed into the distribution block.</p><p></p><p>The battery doctor also has a negative wire which is connected to the AUX batteries negative terminal</p><p></p><p>It seems that after a bit of high volume playing, the isolator goes into Charging over current mode. According to the manual this mean:</p><p></p><p>Charing-Over Current: Excessive current flowing while in charging mode. Over current can be reset by pressing the override/reset button or will automatice reset when the starting battery is below 12.8v indicating that the engine has stopped</p><p></p><p>Im not sure what is triggering this issue, im going to follow all my grounds and make sure everyhing is grounded properly, but im pretty sure it is.</p><p></p><p>I noticed this because the stereo would start to cut out at around 22 on the volume when usually it can go up to 25-27.</p><p></p><p>I took reading on both batteries, and since the isolator has stopped charging the aux battery, it was reading about 8v, while the starting battery was readying about 14 with the engine running.</p><p></p><p>Any ideas?</p><p></p><p>update:</p><p></p><p>I check the voltage of each battery with the engine off, 12 on the starting battery and 11 on the aux battery.</p><p></p><p>I cranked the engine with all amps turned off, and both batteries were reading 12.8v... so i think the alt is charging fine.</p><p></p><p>Could it be that when the AUX battery drains and starts to charge, its drawing too many amps and causing the isolator to fault. This model is 100amp (75 constant, peak 100) ... they make a 150amp model (125constant, 150 peak)??</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="agarabaghi, post: 7502962, member: 632013"] first of all, this is in a boat. Equipment list: WetSound Syn 6 (6ch amp) Cadence A7 HC sub block amp JL m2150 sub amp (1) Optima blue top battery (1) Excide Orbital battery (1) Positive distribution block (1) Negative distribution block 150amp breaker, 135amp breaker 100amp Battery Doctor Isolator Well now that ive re-wired everything im having a weird electrical issue, so im sure it must be something in my wiring. Ive had all 3 amps in the boat before and this never happened, so unless my Alt is starting to die and act funny Im pretty sure its in the wiring. So here is the setup, 3 amps, 2 batteries, 100amp "Battery Doctor" Isolator. Right now I have Starting battery - 0/1 awg positive and negative from the engine block / start to crank the boat, along with the 4awg positive and negative from the dash (power bilge, dash, lights, and ballast. From the starting battery a positive terminal a wire runs to the "Main" connector on the Battery Doctor isolator. From "Aux" terminal on the battery doctor it goes to a 150amp breaker and then to the positive terminal on the AUX battery. The positive terminal feeds a 135amp breaker, which then feeds a distribution block, and each amp connects to that. From the starting battery negative terminal, a wire runs to the negative terminal on the AUX battery, which then feeds the negative distribution block, and the amp negatives are fed into the distribution block. The battery doctor also has a negative wire which is connected to the AUX batteries negative terminal It seems that after a bit of high volume playing, the isolator goes into Charging over current mode. According to the manual this mean: Charing-Over Current: Excessive current flowing while in charging mode. Over current can be reset by pressing the override/reset button or will automatice reset when the starting battery is below 12.8v indicating that the engine has stopped Im not sure what is triggering this issue, im going to follow all my grounds and make sure everyhing is grounded properly, but im pretty sure it is. I noticed this because the stereo would start to cut out at around 22 on the volume when usually it can go up to 25-27. I took reading on both batteries, and since the isolator has stopped charging the aux battery, it was reading about 8v, while the starting battery was readying about 14 with the engine running. Any ideas? update: I check the voltage of each battery with the engine off, 12 on the starting battery and 11 on the aux battery. I cranked the engine with all amps turned off, and both batteries were reading 12.8v... so i think the alt is charging fine. Could it be that when the AUX battery drains and starts to charge, its drawing too many amps and causing the isolator to fault. This model is 100amp (75 constant, peak 100) ... they make a 150amp model (125constant, 150 peak)?? [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
issues with install...
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list
