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Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
is my battery taking a hit?
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<blockquote data-quote="DRBOOM" data-source="post: 8675523" data-attributes="member: 676005"><p>Hey mate,</p><p></p><p>You did not specify your amps that you are running so please provide the details.</p><p></p><p>With a stock electrical system, most cars will take up to 1000watts rms, with a stock alternator, (this has been verified by Richard Clarke and David Navone, (Car audio and Electronics magazine), showing my age here! :nerd:</p><p></p><p>If you are running class D amplifiers, that will be ,much easier on the cars electrical system, since the above statement was made when CLASS D amplifiers were not too common or were not released in the car audio field.</p><p></p><p>Just to further prove a point, I am running 880rms to my subwoofers using a CLASS D monobloc and a Class A/B amp running 200watts rms to the components. So I am doing over 1000 watts but that is fine since music is transient, not constant like a light bulb. Think of it in another way, you don't drive your car with your system in full tilt, whilst having the ac on at full ball, and have the wipers going and your interior lights one together with your driving lights, :suave: I am sure you are getting an impression now, The good thing is that music current demand are higher when the subwoofer kicks in but with speakers, they would be screaming enough with even 100rms x 2 so you will need to turn it down to protect your hearing :graduate:</p><p></p><p>Anyway, you look at it, your system is fine but just provide us which amp your are running so we know you will not be starting a fire if you are using el-cheap amps that have exaggerated power ratings AND that your system has correct power/ground wiring / circuit breakers / fuse holders to protect your ride in case of over-current. </p><p></p><p>If anything that is risky it would be driving the amps to abuse, then your fuse should pop and this will prevent any damage to your cars electrical system as well as your amp blowing up or worst scenario, catching fire. As we don't know what amp you are running One advice is to stay clear of those flea market / second hand amps that looks battered and missing screws/ different fuse is definitely a give away signs that the previous owner did not bother to secure the amp in their ride. :uhoh:</p><p></p><p>Please let us know the amplifier in question so we can further provide some advice and guidance in your case mate! :fro:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DRBOOM, post: 8675523, member: 676005"] Hey mate, You did not specify your amps that you are running so please provide the details. With a stock electrical system, most cars will take up to 1000watts rms, with a stock alternator, (this has been verified by Richard Clarke and David Navone, (Car audio and Electronics magazine), showing my age here! :nerd: If you are running class D amplifiers, that will be ,much easier on the cars electrical system, since the above statement was made when CLASS D amplifiers were not too common or were not released in the car audio field. Just to further prove a point, I am running 880rms to my subwoofers using a CLASS D monobloc and a Class A/B amp running 200watts rms to the components. So I am doing over 1000 watts but that is fine since music is transient, not constant like a light bulb. Think of it in another way, you don't drive your car with your system in full tilt, whilst having the ac on at full ball, and have the wipers going and your interior lights one together with your driving lights, :suave: I am sure you are getting an impression now, The good thing is that music current demand are higher when the subwoofer kicks in but with speakers, they would be screaming enough with even 100rms x 2 so you will need to turn it down to protect your hearing :graduate: Anyway, you look at it, your system is fine but just provide us which amp your are running so we know you will not be starting a fire if you are using el-cheap amps that have exaggerated power ratings AND that your system has correct power/ground wiring / circuit breakers / fuse holders to protect your ride in case of over-current. If anything that is risky it would be driving the amps to abuse, then your fuse should pop and this will prevent any damage to your cars electrical system as well as your amp blowing up or worst scenario, catching fire. As we don't know what amp you are running One advice is to stay clear of those flea market / second hand amps that looks battered and missing screws/ different fuse is definitely a give away signs that the previous owner did not bother to secure the amp in their ride. :uhoh: Please let us know the amplifier in question so we can further provide some advice and guidance in your case mate! :fro: [/QUOTE]
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