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Is my amp gain set properly? Speakers bottoming out...
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<blockquote data-quote="Arythael" data-source="post: 7762038" data-attributes="member: 640311"><p>I attempted to measure the power that they were bottoming out at, and it seemed to be about 57 W... which seems way too low, so I started to think that the DMM is junk or I did something wrong. When I stuck the DMM leads into the speaker wires that connect to my amp (and run to the crossover+tweeter+woofer circuit), my DMM measured a constantly changing resistance of 3.7-4.2 ohms... even more reason to believe the DMM is junk. It is an Ideal Resi-Pro 61-310 Multimeter, and it was just bought new a few weeks ago. Anyway, I still tried to redo my gains for 80 W rather than 160 W.</p><p></p><p>Using 28 as my max head unit volume, I set up my amp with a target voltage of 17.8 volts for a target power of 80 W. I still used a 0 dB tone; I understand the argument towards attenuated test tones but until I can figure out what I&#39;m doing wrong, they would just make my problems worse. Back on topic, it worked out much better than before, but the speakers would still bottom out before I could reach max volume (around 25-26 now, up from about 23-24). I&#39;m so frustrated with this ridiculously simple problem that I ended up just turning my gain down in very small increments until I could reach 27-28, I&#39;m not sure what voltage/power it is at anymore.</p><p></p><p>[quote name='trumpet']CDT Audio power ratings are per side on component sets. The pdf is for the midrange drivers only, which is one reason the power rating is different. There may be different power ratings published because of different versions of the CL-61 set. Are these the old red basket mids? It would be the set shown here: <a href="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/77772-cdt-cl-61-component-set-upstage-kit.html" target="_blank">CDT CL-61 Component Set+Upstage kit.</a></p><p></p><p>If it is the same as that set shown in the link then it&#39;s 160W peak, 80W RMS for the mids only. 160W per side accounts for the tweeters as well. Either way, this is splitting hairs. If you really listened to your music at 160W that&#39;s well past the threshold for pain. Ultimately we have to listen to the speakers and trust our ears, not a meter.</p></blockquote><p></p><p>Nope, they are not the red basket model; my woofers, tweeters, and crossovers are all different than the ones shown in that post.</p><p></p><p>I bought this component set from [USER=614593]@mylows10[/USER] (maybe he has some input for this thread?), and these are the specs that he gave me:</p><p></p><p><strong>CL 61 6.5î 2-way component system</strong></p><p>Technical specs and contents:</p><p>1 pr CL-6E 6.5î mid-woofer</p><p>1 pr TW-25 1î silk tweeter</p><p>1 pr EX-530 24dB 4th/5th order 2-way crossover</p><p>Power handling: 160 watt RMS @ high-pass 120Hz.</p><p>Frequency response: 60Hz-20.000Hz</p><p>Impedance: 4 Ohm</p><p>Sensitivity:90.8dB</p><p>Mounting depth 6.5î woofer 2.5î</p><p>Flush and surface tweeter housings</p><p>[/QUOTE]</p>
[QUOTE="Arythael, post: 7762038, member: 640311"] I attempted to measure the power that they were bottoming out at, and it seemed to be about 57 W... which seems way too low, so I started to think that the DMM is junk or I did something wrong. When I stuck the DMM leads into the speaker wires that connect to my amp (and run to the crossover+tweeter+woofer circuit), my DMM measured a constantly changing resistance of 3.7-4.2 ohms... even more reason to believe the DMM is junk. It is an Ideal Resi-Pro 61-310 Multimeter, and it was just bought new a few weeks ago. Anyway, I still tried to redo my gains for 80 W rather than 160 W. Using 28 as my max head unit volume, I set up my amp with a target voltage of 17.8 volts for a target power of 80 W. I still used a 0 dB tone; I understand the argument towards attenuated test tones but until I can figure out what I'm doing wrong, they would just make my problems worse. Back on topic, it worked out much better than before, but the speakers would still bottom out before I could reach max volume (around 25-26 now, up from about 23-24). I'm so frustrated with this ridiculously simple problem that I ended up just turning my gain down in very small increments until I could reach 27-28, I'm not sure what voltage/power it is at anymore. [quote name='trumpet']CDT Audio power ratings are per side on component sets. The pdf is for the midrange drivers only, which is one reason the power rating is different. There may be different power ratings published because of different versions of the CL-61 set. Are these the old red basket mids? It would be the set shown here: [URL="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/77772-cdt-cl-61-component-set-upstage-kit.html"]CDT CL-61 Component Set+Upstage kit.[/URL] If it is the same as that set shown in the link then it's 160W peak, 80W RMS for the mids only. 160W per side accounts for the tweeters as well. Either way, this is splitting hairs. If you really listened to your music at 160W that's well past the threshold for pain. Ultimately we have to listen to the speakers and trust our ears, not a meter.[/QUOTE] Nope, they are not the red basket model; my woofers, tweeters, and crossovers are all different than the ones shown in that post. I bought this component set from [USER=614593]@mylows10[/USER] (maybe he has some input for this thread?), and these are the specs that he gave me: [B]CL 61 6.5î 2-way component system[/B] Technical specs and contents: 1 pr CL-6E 6.5î mid-woofer 1 pr TW-25 1î silk tweeter 1 pr EX-530 24dB 4th/5th order 2-way crossover Power handling: 160 watt RMS @ high-pass 120Hz. Frequency response: 60Hz-20.000Hz Impedance: 4 Ohm Sensitivity:90.8dB Mounting depth 6.5î woofer 2.5î Flush and surface tweeter housings [/QUOTE]
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