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Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Is it really better getting a custom box built for your car?
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<blockquote data-quote="Buck" data-source="post: 8752942" data-attributes="member: 591582"><p>I'm just speaking from my experience. I design around the sound of a woofer for sure, but I also design around the electrical properties of the sub, and the overall system and amps, alts, batteries, caps, all of that stuff. I try as hard as possible make sure the sub won't unload under a wide bandwidth of playing. That's usually what's wanted. </p><p></p><p>Man, like I design boxes for woofers that are literally 3000w, 4500w, etc RMS. The amount of power and just the epic air movement of subs like that, it really makes me dive into making sure the woofer is well controlled by the box, especially since a lot of dudes with subs in that power range want to play very low and still be musical, like reach up into the high notes as much as possible. So I have to make these stupid monster subs, always overpowered LOL, not bottom out while play say 20-60+ hz.</p><p></p><p>The sub really moves differently playing music. Different notes require different amount of wattage to produce the exact same SPL. So, like a single 12 may take a few more watts to get say 135db at 30 hz vs 135 db at 60 hz. You have to understand why a subwoofer moves like it does, predict how it's going to move, and then design the box to manipulate the sub's natural movements, that way you can extract the sound from the air. </p><p></p><p>The box size, port size, port location, bracing location, sub location, box location in the car, sub firing position, port firing position, there's a ton of factors that can make a literal world of difference. So, combine all of those and try to design and factor in everything you can, it pays off.</p><p></p><p>I can make crappy $100 subs sound really loud. I did it when I was a teenager lol. I was just good at math and I made really simple ported boxes and they were always loud as F. Most people have no idea what real bass sounds like. I used to daily bump 2 18's playing high 140's from the high 20 hz region to 65 hz or so. I'd rip sheet metal. That's what a custom box does. Idk if they really make 18" prefabs anyways, lulz.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buck, post: 8752942, member: 591582"] I'm just speaking from my experience. I design around the sound of a woofer for sure, but I also design around the electrical properties of the sub, and the overall system and amps, alts, batteries, caps, all of that stuff. I try as hard as possible make sure the sub won't unload under a wide bandwidth of playing. That's usually what's wanted. Man, like I design boxes for woofers that are literally 3000w, 4500w, etc RMS. The amount of power and just the epic air movement of subs like that, it really makes me dive into making sure the woofer is well controlled by the box, especially since a lot of dudes with subs in that power range want to play very low and still be musical, like reach up into the high notes as much as possible. So I have to make these stupid monster subs, always overpowered LOL, not bottom out while play say 20-60+ hz. The sub really moves differently playing music. Different notes require different amount of wattage to produce the exact same SPL. So, like a single 12 may take a few more watts to get say 135db at 30 hz vs 135 db at 60 hz. You have to understand why a subwoofer moves like it does, predict how it's going to move, and then design the box to manipulate the sub's natural movements, that way you can extract the sound from the air. The box size, port size, port location, bracing location, sub location, box location in the car, sub firing position, port firing position, there's a ton of factors that can make a literal world of difference. So, combine all of those and try to design and factor in everything you can, it pays off. I can make crappy $100 subs sound really loud. I did it when I was a teenager lol. I was just good at math and I made really simple ported boxes and they were always loud as F. Most people have no idea what real bass sounds like. I used to daily bump 2 18's playing high 140's from the high 20 hz region to 65 hz or so. I'd rip sheet metal. That's what a custom box does. Idk if they really make 18" prefabs anyways, lulz. [/QUOTE]
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Is it really better getting a custom box built for your car?
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