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<blockquote data-quote="helotaxi" data-source="post: 429287" data-attributes="member: 550915"><p>You have the constant 12V (used to maintain the unit&#039;s memory) and the ignition switched 12V (used to provide primary power to the unit and turn it on and off with the car) wired backwards.&nbsp; Switch them and that will fix that problem.Use a y-connector or an outboard electronic crossover to get the signals for all your amps from the single pair of RCAs coming from the deck.&nbsp; You could also use a line driver with multiple outputs.&nbsp; To get the remote signal to both amps you can either run it from the REM out on the HU to the first amp and then on to the second amp or you can wire up a relay that uses the REM from the HU as its switching source. Provided that the 8 ga sections are fairly short and you are not blowing the fuse, then it is plenty.the crossover that comes with a component set is passive in nature, it doesn&#039;t require power connections or a remote turn on.</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="helotaxi, post: 429287, member: 550915"] You have the constant 12V (used to maintain the unit's memory) and the ignition switched 12V (used to provide primary power to the unit and turn it on and off with the car) wired backwards. Switch them and that will fix that problem.Use a y-connector or an outboard electronic crossover to get the signals for all your amps from the single pair of RCAs coming from the deck. You could also use a line driver with multiple outputs. To get the remote signal to both amps you can either run it from the REM out on the HU to the first amp and then on to the second amp or you can wire up a relay that uses the REM from the HU as its switching source. Provided that the 8 ga sections are fairly short and you are not blowing the fuse, then it is plenty.the crossover that comes with a component set is passive in nature, it doesn't require power connections or a remote turn on. [/QUOTE]

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