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Installed the system, BAD Dimming!! Help
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<blockquote data-quote="helotaxi" data-source="post: 2291493" data-attributes="member: 550915"><p>If the lights are simply flickering, then adding a battery in the rear isn't a bad idea. The skin voltage on the battery will help keep the voltage stable during transient demands. Eliminating the 15ft of 4ga between the current supply and the amp and the ground path of the same length will also go a long way to help with voltage drops.</p><p></p><p>The battery works as a buffer during transients. If the lights are only flickering, then you are suffering from transient draw in excess of what the alt is putting out at the onset of the transient. Honestly, it doesn't matter how big the alt is, a serious transient will exceed the current output of the alt. The lt only produces what is demanded of it at any given time and it takes a finite amount of time for the alt to step up its output. During this time the voltage will drop and it only takes a drop for a few milliseconds for the lights to dim and the human eye to notice the drop.</p><p></p><p>The battery carries a skin voltage at the level of the alt's voltage and this voltage will remain until a heavy demand is placed on the battery to level it or the battery is removed from the charging source for several hours. This skin voltage will stabilize the electrical system voltage during the time it takes for the alt to step up its power production or for the transient to end. If it wasn't for the resistance of the wire between the battery and the amp, your underhood battery would probably have enough of a buffer to prevent a lot of the dimming issues, however the resistance of the wire is most of the problem with the appearance of dimming in an otherwise healthy charging system. As the current flowing throug the wire increases the voltage lost across the wire increases as well. Adding a battery in the trunk will eliminate the vast majority of this drop because the resistance of the wire current supply and the amp is greatly reduced.</p><p></p><p>Electricity takes the path of least resistance. In the case of two batteries, one under the hood and one near the amps, the battery near the amps will be drawn from first and the battery under the hood will hold its voltage because of the resistance of the wire between them.</p><p></p><p>All the above concerns transient demands caused by dynamic music, kickdrums etc... If you listen to music with more of a long droning quality to the bass, then you would be better served by a larger alt. This type of music will prouce moreof a constant high draw on the electrical system and will overwhelm the buffer of the battery or batteries and fully tax the alt as well. In this case going to a bigger alt is the only solution.</p><p></p><p>BTW, your amp may only be fused to 90A but during a hard transient, it can actually draw significantly more than that without blowing the fuse.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="helotaxi, post: 2291493, member: 550915"] If the lights are simply flickering, then adding a battery in the rear isn't a bad idea. The skin voltage on the battery will help keep the voltage stable during transient demands. Eliminating the 15ft of 4ga between the current supply and the amp and the ground path of the same length will also go a long way to help with voltage drops. The battery works as a buffer during transients. If the lights are only flickering, then you are suffering from transient draw in excess of what the alt is putting out at the onset of the transient. Honestly, it doesn't matter how big the alt is, a serious transient will exceed the current output of the alt. The lt only produces what is demanded of it at any given time and it takes a finite amount of time for the alt to step up its output. During this time the voltage will drop and it only takes a drop for a few milliseconds for the lights to dim and the human eye to notice the drop. The battery carries a skin voltage at the level of the alt's voltage and this voltage will remain until a heavy demand is placed on the battery to level it or the battery is removed from the charging source for several hours. This skin voltage will stabilize the electrical system voltage during the time it takes for the alt to step up its power production or for the transient to end. If it wasn't for the resistance of the wire between the battery and the amp, your underhood battery would probably have enough of a buffer to prevent a lot of the dimming issues, however the resistance of the wire is most of the problem with the appearance of dimming in an otherwise healthy charging system. As the current flowing throug the wire increases the voltage lost across the wire increases as well. Adding a battery in the trunk will eliminate the vast majority of this drop because the resistance of the wire current supply and the amp is greatly reduced. Electricity takes the path of least resistance. In the case of two batteries, one under the hood and one near the amps, the battery near the amps will be drawn from first and the battery under the hood will hold its voltage because of the resistance of the wire between them. All the above concerns transient demands caused by dynamic music, kickdrums etc... If you listen to music with more of a long droning quality to the bass, then you would be better served by a larger alt. This type of music will prouce moreof a constant high draw on the electrical system and will overwhelm the buffer of the battery or batteries and fully tax the alt as well. In this case going to a bigger alt is the only solution. BTW, your amp may only be fused to 90A but during a hard transient, it can actually draw significantly more than that without blowing the fuse. [/QUOTE]
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