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Install issues... Any ideas?
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<blockquote data-quote="Pitchblack98" data-source="post: 6262149" data-attributes="member: 569595"><p>This is a little bit long, so bear with me...</p><p></p><p>I just installed an 800PRS last weekend. I decided to run all my power, RCA, ground, and speakers wires for my amps while I was at it. I am running the 800PRS active. I have a set of Type X components I plan to run off of an Alpine MRV-F345 with the tweets and mids on their own channels. I also have two MRD-M1005 amps that will each run a Type R 12.</p><p></p><p>Heres a quick run down of my wiring... 0 ga. from battery to 200amp fuse and then thru the firewire to a fused distrobution block mounted under the passanger seat. 0 ga. ground wire from distrobution block under drivers seat thru the floor board and grounded to the frame of the truck. Ground wire is about 10" long with a ring terminal crimped on. I have also ran 16 ga. speaker wires directly to each speaker (not the subs) and to the amp. The rest of the wiring is pretty much typical, RCAs, remote wire.</p><p></p><p>I got all the wires ran and decided to hook up the F345 to my comps until I could get time to install the subs. Got it all hooked up and tested it with the truck not running before putting the seats and center consol back in. Everything worked great...</p><p></p><p>After putting the seats and consol back in, I started the truck and turned the headunit on. The amp immediately goes into protect mode flashing CUR on the display. Turned everything off, checked all the wires and found nothing wrong. Try it again and same issue. After checking all of my wiring pretty thoroughly and not finding anything wrong, I tired one more time. That is when bad got worse. The amp came on this time, instantly blew up one of my tweeters and then proceded to burn itself up... The amp would still power up, but wouldnt put out any sound. Right after the tweeter blew up the voltage on the amp was showing 8 to 9 volts while I still had 14 volts at the battery. Unhooking all the speaker wires cause the voltage to go back to 14 volts and then back down to 9 when I hooked the speaker wires back up (not including the blow tweeter's wires. The amp may have burned up already before I tried unhooking speakers. dunno...</p><p></p><p>I can not, for the life of me, figure out what went wrong. All speaker wires, RCA wires, and power wires have tested good with no shorts. None of the fuse ever blew and the speakers run fine hooked straight to the deck.</p><p></p><p>I have tested my ground wire by probing it with the negative terminal on the battery and was showing 5 to 8 ohms on my DMM. I have tested a lot of potential grounding spots and all were showing between 5 to 8 ohms. I just ran 0 GA. wire from the battery ground to the chasis and then from the chasis to the engine block. Now I get about 2 ohm when testing my ground...</p><p></p><p>I have come to the conclusion that either my ground is/was bad or its possible the tweeter that blew up may have already been damaged and caused all the issues.</p><p></p><p>I would love to hear anyone elses ideas. I have another F345 ready to go it, but I want to make sure everything is good so I don't burn up another one.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Pitchblack98, post: 6262149, member: 569595"] This is a little bit long, so bear with me... I just installed an 800PRS last weekend. I decided to run all my power, RCA, ground, and speakers wires for my amps while I was at it. I am running the 800PRS active. I have a set of Type X components I plan to run off of an Alpine MRV-F345 with the tweets and mids on their own channels. I also have two MRD-M1005 amps that will each run a Type R 12. Heres a quick run down of my wiring... 0 ga. from battery to 200amp fuse and then thru the firewire to a fused distrobution block mounted under the passanger seat. 0 ga. ground wire from distrobution block under drivers seat thru the floor board and grounded to the frame of the truck. Ground wire is about 10" long with a ring terminal crimped on. I have also ran 16 ga. speaker wires directly to each speaker (not the subs) and to the amp. The rest of the wiring is pretty much typical, RCAs, remote wire. I got all the wires ran and decided to hook up the F345 to my comps until I could get time to install the subs. Got it all hooked up and tested it with the truck not running before putting the seats and center consol back in. Everything worked great... After putting the seats and consol back in, I started the truck and turned the headunit on. The amp immediately goes into protect mode flashing CUR on the display. Turned everything off, checked all the wires and found nothing wrong. Try it again and same issue. After checking all of my wiring pretty thoroughly and not finding anything wrong, I tired one more time. That is when bad got worse. The amp came on this time, instantly blew up one of my tweeters and then proceded to burn itself up... The amp would still power up, but wouldnt put out any sound. Right after the tweeter blew up the voltage on the amp was showing 8 to 9 volts while I still had 14 volts at the battery. Unhooking all the speaker wires cause the voltage to go back to 14 volts and then back down to 9 when I hooked the speaker wires back up (not including the blow tweeter's wires. The amp may have burned up already before I tried unhooking speakers. dunno... I can not, for the life of me, figure out what went wrong. All speaker wires, RCA wires, and power wires have tested good with no shorts. None of the fuse ever blew and the speakers run fine hooked straight to the deck. I have tested my ground wire by probing it with the negative terminal on the battery and was showing 5 to 8 ohms on my DMM. I have tested a lot of potential grounding spots and all were showing between 5 to 8 ohms. I just ran 0 GA. wire from the battery ground to the chasis and then from the chasis to the engine block. Now I get about 2 ohm when testing my ground... I have come to the conclusion that either my ground is/was bad or its possible the tweeter that blew up may have already been damaged and caused all the issues. I would love to hear anyone elses ideas. I have another F345 ready to go it, but I want to make sure everything is good so I don't burn up another one. [/QUOTE]
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