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Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
im looking for a decent budget 12"
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<blockquote data-quote="mvw2" data-source="post: 3446766" data-attributes="member: 574722"><p>My power quote was for each Legacy amp. Two together, you have double that. That is the rms power. Max power is meaningless, but marketing loves it cause it makes things look impressive. I wouldn't argue with you if they actually specified proper(rms) power levels and provided birth sheets with their amps but they don't. In fact, it's quite hard to even find rms values at all. You have to dig for the rare sight that actually wants to list rms values. Legacy's own site, and user manuals is about the only place you can find any info other than the "max" value everyone touts.</p><p></p><p>I'll pick an example from Legacy's site, their Rebel LA959 2 channel amp, rated 1200w max. 4ohm rms wattage is 100w x 2, 2ohm rms wattage is 150w x 2. They list no rms values for bridged, but they do state bridged should only be between 4 and 8ohms while each channel seperately can go down to 2 ohms. Max amperage for the amp is 30 amps. 30 amps X 12 volts = 360 watts of power. This is how much power the amp can output before the fuse blows. That means this amp is incapable of outputting more than 360 watts total...max, ever. Rms wattage will be below this, at the very most 250w rms. Rms = root mean squared. It's the average power output or 0.707 of peak power. This is just the area under a sine wave. Other 1200w models list the same specs, just a different looking cover on the amp. Now if you were talking about the LA2288 "4000w" amp, you're looking at a healthy amount of power. That one can actually support about 600w rms. I'm simply taking the info from their own specs.</p><p></p><p>Phoenix Gold isn't a large company, never has been. Small company doesn't equal flea market. Yes, they make some entry level stuff that is nothing to right home about, but they also make very good products from time to time when their engineers want to let loose and show their talent. Some of their stuff is pure EE sex, other stuff not so much. They are most well known for their amps, crossovers, and hardware bits. Their speakers have never really shown out too much. Their old Xenon speakers were actually quite good, expecially for the price, and their Morel based Ti Elite set is still highly reguarded. The crossover on that thing is gorgeous but about the size of a small amp, lol. The Xenon amps are some of the best ones they've made, short maybe the Ti Elites which were **** pretty to look at too. Go ask an electrical engineer how good PG's amps are. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif I mainly like the Xenon because it outputs equal power reguardless of ohm load(nice feature if you want it) and has a nice 24dB/oct. crossover, something hard to come by in amps. I run 400w rms because that's all I need.</p><p></p><p>PG is so-so for subs. I own one of their RSD subs and used it for a short while. The design is basic, no sexiness here. The cone is a bit soft for my taste. I don't mind poly, but it's noticably flexable and the lack of detail is heard when playing higher bass frequencies. The sub's great for low end output, but you really need to cross at 60Hz or below to like it. If you start asking for 100Hz out of it, the output is just junk, jibberish, indistinguishable as music. The real benefit of the RSD is the ability to throw it in a small enclosure, feed it a good amount of power, and it will play deep with authority, like a F3 below 30Hz in a small sealed box deep. If you plan to run a higher frequency range, there are better(cleaner) options.</p><p></p><p>Loud and hard-hitting are based on several factors. One can't directly compare two subwoofer setups without knowing all the facts like available power, box size and tune(modeled up in software as well), as well as system settings like gain, EQ, which HU(and it's preout voltages), lots of factors. Even the car, the direction the subs are facing, and any phase and time alignment done to the system. I've modeled up a couple L7 subs in the past, never have run any. They aren't my particular type of sub. I've never looked at the Volfenhag subs. They might very well be a higher impact sub, and if more efficient, louder off less power.</p><p></p><p>I'll note I am not trying to rip on your or anything. If they work for you great. I don't care. I am simply stating facts and correcting the incorrect. You can take that whatever way you want. I come to these forums to educate, teach, and share my passion for the hobby. I hope to come away learning something myself from time to time as well.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mvw2, post: 3446766, member: 574722"] My power quote was for each Legacy amp. Two together, you have double that. That is the rms power. Max power is meaningless, but marketing loves it cause it makes things look impressive. I wouldn't argue with you if they actually specified proper(rms) power levels and provided birth sheets with their amps but they don't. In fact, it's quite hard to even find rms values at all. You have to dig for the rare sight that actually wants to list rms values. Legacy's own site, and user manuals is about the only place you can find any info other than the "max" value everyone touts. I'll pick an example from Legacy's site, their Rebel LA959 2 channel amp, rated 1200w max. 4ohm rms wattage is 100w x 2, 2ohm rms wattage is 150w x 2. They list no rms values for bridged, but they do state bridged should only be between 4 and 8ohms while each channel seperately can go down to 2 ohms. Max amperage for the amp is 30 amps. 30 amps X 12 volts = 360 watts of power. This is how much power the amp can output before the fuse blows. That means this amp is incapable of outputting more than 360 watts total...max, ever. Rms wattage will be below this, at the very most 250w rms. Rms = root mean squared. It's the average power output or 0.707 of peak power. This is just the area under a sine wave. Other 1200w models list the same specs, just a different looking cover on the amp. Now if you were talking about the LA2288 "4000w" amp, you're looking at a healthy amount of power. That one can actually support about 600w rms. I'm simply taking the info from their own specs. Phoenix Gold isn't a large company, never has been. Small company doesn't equal flea market. Yes, they make some entry level stuff that is nothing to right home about, but they also make very good products from time to time when their engineers want to let loose and show their talent. Some of their stuff is pure EE sex, other stuff not so much. They are most well known for their amps, crossovers, and hardware bits. Their speakers have never really shown out too much. Their old Xenon speakers were actually quite good, expecially for the price, and their Morel based Ti Elite set is still highly reguarded. The crossover on that thing is gorgeous but about the size of a small amp, lol. The Xenon amps are some of the best ones they've made, short maybe the Ti Elites which were **** pretty to look at too. Go ask an electrical engineer how good PG's amps are. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] I mainly like the Xenon because it outputs equal power reguardless of ohm load(nice feature if you want it) and has a nice 24dB/oct. crossover, something hard to come by in amps. I run 400w rms because that's all I need. PG is so-so for subs. I own one of their RSD subs and used it for a short while. The design is basic, no sexiness here. The cone is a bit soft for my taste. I don't mind poly, but it's noticably flexable and the lack of detail is heard when playing higher bass frequencies. The sub's great for low end output, but you really need to cross at 60Hz or below to like it. If you start asking for 100Hz out of it, the output is just junk, jibberish, indistinguishable as music. The real benefit of the RSD is the ability to throw it in a small enclosure, feed it a good amount of power, and it will play deep with authority, like a F3 below 30Hz in a small sealed box deep. If you plan to run a higher frequency range, there are better(cleaner) options. Loud and hard-hitting are based on several factors. One can't directly compare two subwoofer setups without knowing all the facts like available power, box size and tune(modeled up in software as well), as well as system settings like gain, EQ, which HU(and it's preout voltages), lots of factors. Even the car, the direction the subs are facing, and any phase and time alignment done to the system. I've modeled up a couple L7 subs in the past, never have run any. They aren't my particular type of sub. I've never looked at the Volfenhag subs. They might very well be a higher impact sub, and if more efficient, louder off less power. I'll note I am not trying to rip on your or anything. If they work for you great. I don't care. I am simply stating facts and correcting the incorrect. You can take that whatever way you want. I come to these forums to educate, teach, and share my passion for the hobby. I hope to come away learning something myself from time to time as well. [/QUOTE]
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im looking for a decent budget 12"
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