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<blockquote data-quote="KaeZoo" data-source="post: 2023903" data-attributes="member: 554753">As long as you&#039;ve got the meter out, disconnect the remote wire at the head unit and test the remote output voltage without the remote wire to the amp connected.&nbsp; If you still don&#039;t get around 12v, then the remote output is bad in the head unit.&nbsp; You can temporarily get around it by connecting the amp&#039;s remote wire to the red accessory wire.&nbsp; Put a 1a fuse on the remote wire if you do this.If the head unit provides 12v without the amp connected, chances are you have a problem with your remote wire (or maybe your amp).&nbsp; Disconnect the remote terminal at the amplifier, then test for continuity on the remote wire with the ground terminal.&nbsp; If you find continuity to ground when the wire isn&#039;t connected at the amp or the head unit, you have a short on the remote wire that&#039;s shutting down the head unit&#039;s output.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="KaeZoo, post: 2023903, member: 554753"] As long as you've got the meter out, disconnect the remote wire at the head unit and test the remote output voltage without the remote wire to the amp connected. If you still don't get around 12v, then the remote output is bad in the head unit. You can temporarily get around it by connecting the amp's remote wire to the red accessory wire. Put a 1a fuse on the remote wire if you do this. If the head unit provides 12v without the amp connected, chances are you have a problem with your remote wire (or maybe your amp). Disconnect the remote terminal at the amplifier, then test for continuity on the remote wire with the ground terminal. If you find continuity to ground when the wire isn't connected at the amp or the head unit, you have a short on the remote wire that's shutting down the head unit's output. [/QUOTE]

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