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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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<blockquote data-quote="Chromatic" data-source="post: 8222616" data-attributes="member: 659121"><p>Thanks,.. and that is what I concluded based on the use.. I'm used to thinking of power in terms of having to attenuate voltage prior to it reaching a device.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Well,.. As always it took me longer than expected to finish a project than anticipated,.. I first mocked up the fan with electrical tape and just the fuse on the Pos terminal of the fan and negative ... Positive lead to the amps power wire, and negative to the negative.. Just so I could get an idea of the noise of the larger sized fan I was going to use.. You never know the noise output in different locations as I've only ever used them in computers.</p><p></p><p>It was a bit louder than I expected, not much.. but given it has to run at full rpm due to now PWM control with a straight current going to it, it's going to be as loud as the fan can possibly be (max rpm all the time). Also I wanted to make sure the fan worked properly and I still hadn't figured out just how I was going to mount it, etc.</p><p></p><p>I started mocking up a shelf to make use of the rest of the room in that slot,.. and there's just no point in using that slot for anything but the amp,.. even a shelf right over the amp gives about 1-1.5" of space.. not worth further restricting the amp imo.</p><p></p><p>So the shelving idea went out,.. and then things changed. I just went for the heart of the matter in this,.. If it was going to be the amp only in there, I was going to start fabricating. So I grabbed the dremel and mocked up the fan , checked clearances with the door shut, and then started drilling out holes for air to be ****** through ,.. as I mounted the fan on the *inside* of the door, so it couldn't be seen.. and to pull cabin cool air into the "glovebox/cubby" to get the maximum potential out of this since it's now an Amp slot only. The door was much thicker than other trim pieces I've been fabricating in the car.. so I spent a solid hour getting the holes properly dremeled and buffed out so it wasn't a cut up mess. Than I tested the fan completely flush against the inner door,.. and it was a little louder this way. So I knew it needed just a little bit of spacer between it and the door to quieten it down and pull air better.</p><p></p><p>I wasn't going to run out for a couple of "spacers" .. so I dug around until I found two double thick washers .. and had to find some screws that were long enough to get through the door, spacers, and into fan holes (standard screws for the fan weren't an option).</p><p></p><p>Then I went to the process of cutting all the wire, putting spade female connectors on the Fan Positive, Remote wire coming off the relay, Ground coming off relay, and the 30 terminal that was going to the power cable on amp. Got all that together, wire lengths measured out, etc.. Then I had some of those clips where you put over a wire and then run the butt of another wire into and press down and it "splices" into both wires (never used them before). Well had it all hooked up.. and went to test. Amp came on, but fan didn't power up.</p><p></p><p>I knew it was those crap "easy splice" connectors. I took them off and they didn't pierce the sheathing of the wiring,.. (I was using two,. one on the Remote wire, and one on the ground wire.. ) -- So I Ran an additional wire into the remote wire slot (instead of splicing the remote).. and an both the fan ground and the 85 terminal wire into the amp ground.. Hooked them up,.. and tried again.</p><p></p><p>Turned on headunit,.. Click, relay -- Fan started,.. then a second later.. click Amp. Relay is considerably quicker than the power on of the amp (by a second or two). But success!</p><p></p><p>Just to be "safe" I wrapped all four terminals of the relay in electrical tape in case them got move around and touched something else.. you never know. Then I worked the relay and wires out of sight, and on the "power side" of the amp, but underneath it where I have the other wiring "hidden",.. left enough slack for the door to open and nice cool air is being pulled into the slot.</p><p></p><p>I'll take a picture of it and add it in a bit.. but the fan is one of the best made... But it's Noctua, so it's ugly as sin lol.. So it's not exactly a "show piece".. The holes on the outside aren't as pretty as they could be,.. but that's primarily because I'm going to eventually cut the enter section out and put a Black guard and some dark "mesh" like a filter but that allows air to flow freely; So it will look more "cleaned up" and to get even more airflow in there.</p><p></p><p><strong>Intake Holes (Not perfection here.. but not finished):</strong></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/12062012894/" target="_blank"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3731/12062012894_6ef06bcaf5.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p><strong>Fan Wired via Relay - mounted on spacers Pulling Cabin Air:</strong></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/12061615715/" target="_blank"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5484/12061615715_f2450be372.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>I'm even thinking about grabbing a vent to mock up in the slot, shouldn't be too difficult,.. and maybe putting some smaller vents in other locations on the door to let some air escape if need be.</p><p></p><p>But for now it's fully functional, and not a "Death Box" as VWBobby calls it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p><p></p><p>Thanks for the help.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chromatic, post: 8222616, member: 659121"] Thanks,.. and that is what I concluded based on the use.. I'm used to thinking of power in terms of having to attenuate voltage prior to it reaching a device. Well,.. As always it took me longer than expected to finish a project than anticipated,.. I first mocked up the fan with electrical tape and just the fuse on the Pos terminal of the fan and negative ... Positive lead to the amps power wire, and negative to the negative.. Just so I could get an idea of the noise of the larger sized fan I was going to use.. You never know the noise output in different locations as I've only ever used them in computers. It was a bit louder than I expected, not much.. but given it has to run at full rpm due to now PWM control with a straight current going to it, it's going to be as loud as the fan can possibly be (max rpm all the time). Also I wanted to make sure the fan worked properly and I still hadn't figured out just how I was going to mount it, etc. I started mocking up a shelf to make use of the rest of the room in that slot,.. and there's just no point in using that slot for anything but the amp,.. even a shelf right over the amp gives about 1-1.5" of space.. not worth further restricting the amp imo. So the shelving idea went out,.. and then things changed. I just went for the heart of the matter in this,.. If it was going to be the amp only in there, I was going to start fabricating. So I grabbed the dremel and mocked up the fan , checked clearances with the door shut, and then started drilling out holes for air to be ****** through ,.. as I mounted the fan on the *inside* of the door, so it couldn't be seen.. and to pull cabin cool air into the "glovebox/cubby" to get the maximum potential out of this since it's now an Amp slot only. The door was much thicker than other trim pieces I've been fabricating in the car.. so I spent a solid hour getting the holes properly dremeled and buffed out so it wasn't a cut up mess. Than I tested the fan completely flush against the inner door,.. and it was a little louder this way. So I knew it needed just a little bit of spacer between it and the door to quieten it down and pull air better. I wasn't going to run out for a couple of "spacers" .. so I dug around until I found two double thick washers .. and had to find some screws that were long enough to get through the door, spacers, and into fan holes (standard screws for the fan weren't an option). Then I went to the process of cutting all the wire, putting spade female connectors on the Fan Positive, Remote wire coming off the relay, Ground coming off relay, and the 30 terminal that was going to the power cable on amp. Got all that together, wire lengths measured out, etc.. Then I had some of those clips where you put over a wire and then run the butt of another wire into and press down and it "splices" into both wires (never used them before). Well had it all hooked up.. and went to test. Amp came on, but fan didn't power up. I knew it was those crap "easy splice" connectors. I took them off and they didn't pierce the sheathing of the wiring,.. (I was using two,. one on the Remote wire, and one on the ground wire.. ) -- So I Ran an additional wire into the remote wire slot (instead of splicing the remote).. and an both the fan ground and the 85 terminal wire into the amp ground.. Hooked them up,.. and tried again. Turned on headunit,.. Click, relay -- Fan started,.. then a second later.. click Amp. Relay is considerably quicker than the power on of the amp (by a second or two). But success! Just to be "safe" I wrapped all four terminals of the relay in electrical tape in case them got move around and touched something else.. you never know. Then I worked the relay and wires out of sight, and on the "power side" of the amp, but underneath it where I have the other wiring "hidden",.. left enough slack for the door to open and nice cool air is being pulled into the slot. I'll take a picture of it and add it in a bit.. but the fan is one of the best made... But it's Noctua, so it's ugly as sin lol.. So it's not exactly a "show piece".. The holes on the outside aren't as pretty as they could be,.. but that's primarily because I'm going to eventually cut the enter section out and put a Black guard and some dark "mesh" like a filter but that allows air to flow freely; So it will look more "cleaned up" and to get even more airflow in there. [B]Intake Holes (Not perfection here.. but not finished):[/B] [URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/12062012894/"][IMG]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3731/12062012894_6ef06bcaf5.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [B]Fan Wired via Relay - mounted on spacers Pulling Cabin Air:[/B] [URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/12061615715/"][IMG]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5484/12061615715_f2450be372.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I'm even thinking about grabbing a vent to mock up in the slot, shouldn't be too difficult,.. and maybe putting some smaller vents in other locations on the door to let some air escape if need be. But for now it's fully functional, and not a "Death Box" as VWBobby calls it. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] Thanks for the help. [/QUOTE]
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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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