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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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<blockquote data-quote="Chromatic" data-source="post: 8221710" data-attributes="member: 659121"><p>Ok, that's nice.. No running wires more than a few inches.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Yeah,.. you never know sometimes -- but it's just a motor on a ball bearing generally.. Depending on the fan type.. Further I'll be using low RPM , larger fans for more CFM but without noise.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Ok so the remote will run through relay before it hits the amp,... The rest of the wires will remain as they are IN the amp... And I will tap into the 4 Gauge power wire.. just by , I suppose, using a 14-16 gauge speaker wire screwed in WITH the fat 4g power wire in the amp terminal,..and putting an inline 3amp fuse on the wire which will end up hitting the relay,.. and the ground wire the same way..minus a fuse... All sounds straight forward as long as I'm correct on just screwing the power and ground 14 gauge (just because that's what I have a ton of left..) directly in the amp slots with the 4 gauge power and ground wires -- and remote wire will not be going to amp, it will go to relay, and relay will feed the remote back to amp.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Pig tails are easiest.. I'll likely actually use Crimps with this due to the area I will be working in (don't want to burn the carpet in there hehe).. and I've used crimps a little more after the big install as I've been rigging relays and switches in the car.. and the new crimps and tool I have really are impressing me on how good the connections are. But, who knows I may end up soldering the dam.n things lol.</p><p></p><p>Speaking of shoddy wiring... I JUST noticed this (got this car a little over a month ago).. I was redoing the ground.. and it was getting dark.. and this is what I suddenly saw as I was ducking my head down to remove a panel ...</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/12019663174/" target="_blank"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/12019663174_ef6554be77.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Heh.. the dude didn't even hide the wire! Ughh..</p><p></p><p>The white leds.. are actually a bit useful in there and not hideous -- but the Blue led in the middle? Really? That's getting chopped. The white leds are adhesive, but he used what looks like hot glue to hold them (and they are coming off on the ends).. At least I hope it's hot glue and not superglue lol.. But,.. I think I'll keep the white ones.. But I'll take it all down and rewire the whole thing so It's "clean" -- and I'm going to snip and remove the Blue LED.</p><p></p><p>The hatch really has **** poor lighting.. and I know the original owner put those LEDS in to look "cool".. but they actually give off some reasonably light and are wired into the light that comes on when the hatch is opened,.. So it works out well. I keep getting surprised by stuff on or in this car lol. Especially when it has 26k miles.. The dude really started going after it quickly (I'm the third owner). But, if I listed all the work I've done on the car in the last month it'd be a little more ridiculous.. but most of it is fixing minor issues that the previous owner obviously has zero mechanical "knowledge".. but I digress.</p><p></p><p>Thanks for the info -- Let me know if I'm right about those connections in the amp,.. And mind linking a decent inline fuse to use? I don't particularly like those typical square ones you see people running off cigarette lighters and such.. Do they make some cylinder ones like the 80amp fuse the Amp 4g power wire uses, but obviously going to be MUCH smaller? It would be a cleaner look.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chromatic, post: 8221710, member: 659121"] Ok, that's nice.. No running wires more than a few inches. Yeah,.. you never know sometimes -- but it's just a motor on a ball bearing generally.. Depending on the fan type.. Further I'll be using low RPM , larger fans for more CFM but without noise. Ok so the remote will run through relay before it hits the amp,... The rest of the wires will remain as they are IN the amp... And I will tap into the 4 Gauge power wire.. just by , I suppose, using a 14-16 gauge speaker wire screwed in WITH the fat 4g power wire in the amp terminal,..and putting an inline 3amp fuse on the wire which will end up hitting the relay,.. and the ground wire the same way..minus a fuse... All sounds straight forward as long as I'm correct on just screwing the power and ground 14 gauge (just because that's what I have a ton of left..) directly in the amp slots with the 4 gauge power and ground wires -- and remote wire will not be going to amp, it will go to relay, and relay will feed the remote back to amp. Pig tails are easiest.. I'll likely actually use Crimps with this due to the area I will be working in (don't want to burn the carpet in there hehe).. and I've used crimps a little more after the big install as I've been rigging relays and switches in the car.. and the new crimps and tool I have really are impressing me on how good the connections are. But, who knows I may end up soldering the dam.n things lol. Speaking of shoddy wiring... I JUST noticed this (got this car a little over a month ago).. I was redoing the ground.. and it was getting dark.. and this is what I suddenly saw as I was ducking my head down to remove a panel ... [URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/111739693@N04/12019663174/"][IMG]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/12019663174_ef6554be77.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Heh.. the dude didn't even hide the wire! Ughh.. The white leds.. are actually a bit useful in there and not hideous -- but the Blue led in the middle? Really? That's getting chopped. The white leds are adhesive, but he used what looks like hot glue to hold them (and they are coming off on the ends).. At least I hope it's hot glue and not superglue lol.. But,.. I think I'll keep the white ones.. But I'll take it all down and rewire the whole thing so It's "clean" -- and I'm going to snip and remove the Blue LED. The hatch really has **** poor lighting.. and I know the original owner put those LEDS in to look "cool".. but they actually give off some reasonably light and are wired into the light that comes on when the hatch is opened,.. So it works out well. I keep getting surprised by stuff on or in this car lol. Especially when it has 26k miles.. The dude really started going after it quickly (I'm the third owner). But, if I listed all the work I've done on the car in the last month it'd be a little more ridiculous.. but most of it is fixing minor issues that the previous owner obviously has zero mechanical "knowledge".. but I digress. Thanks for the info -- Let me know if I'm right about those connections in the amp,.. And mind linking a decent inline fuse to use? I don't particularly like those typical square ones you see people running off cigarette lighters and such.. Do they make some cylinder ones like the 80amp fuse the Amp 4g power wire uses, but obviously going to be MUCH smaller? It would be a cleaner look. [/QUOTE]
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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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