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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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<blockquote data-quote="bbeljefe" data-source="post: 8221346" data-attributes="member: 655960"><p>You can power the fan entirely from the amplifier's power inputs, using its battery &amp; negative plus the remotes turn on wire. You can use any readily available 20 or 30 amp SPST (single pole single throw) automotive relay like <a href="http://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc-automotive-5-pin-relay-spdt-30-40a-bosch-type--330-073?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=pla" target="_blank">this on from Parts Express</a> and, I'd fuse it at no more than 3 amps.</p><p></p><p>No need to worry much about noise being introduced because computer fans don't create much noise and from what I've learned of you, your wiring isn't willy nilly laying around in such a way that it's susceptible to accepting noise. ;-)</p><p></p><p>The head unit remote will be disconnected from the amp and connected to the relay's coil (pin 86). Then, the other end of the coil will go to ground (85). The fused battery positive will go to the relay's common lead (30) and then, the normally open relay lead (87) will go to both the fan positive and the amplifier's remote terminal.</p><p></p><p>Here's a short primer on Automotive relays in case you'd like to be familiarized with them:</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]oYLAJ6cs8t0[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>And here's a diagram of the relay connections:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/5-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Most of these relays have a tab on top with a screw hole that allows you to mount the relay pretty much anywhere you want. Just keep it &amp; the fan on the power input side of the amp and you should have zero chance of introducing noise. Also, you can buy a relay harness that has pig tails on it so that you don't have to use individual female spade connectors. I prefer the latter but either way will work.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bbeljefe, post: 8221346, member: 655960"] You can power the fan entirely from the amplifier's power inputs, using its battery & negative plus the remotes turn on wire. You can use any readily available 20 or 30 amp SPST (single pole single throw) automotive relay like [URL="http://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc-automotive-5-pin-relay-spdt-30-40a-bosch-type--330-073?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla"]this on from Parts Express[/URL] and, I'd fuse it at no more than 3 amps. No need to worry much about noise being introduced because computer fans don't create much noise and from what I've learned of you, your wiring isn't willy nilly laying around in such a way that it's susceptible to accepting noise. ;-) The head unit remote will be disconnected from the amp and connected to the relay's coil (pin 86). Then, the other end of the coil will go to ground (85). The fused battery positive will go to the relay's common lead (30) and then, the normally open relay lead (87) will go to both the fan positive and the amplifier's remote terminal. Here's a short primer on Automotive relays in case you'd like to be familiarized with them: [MEDIA=youtube]oYLAJ6cs8t0[/MEDIA] And here's a diagram of the relay connections: [IMG]http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/5-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg[/IMG] Most of these relays have a tab on top with a screw hole that allows you to mount the relay pretty much anywhere you want. Just keep it & the fan on the power input side of the amp and you should have zero chance of introducing noise. Also, you can buy a relay harness that has pig tails on it so that you don't have to use individual female spade connectors. I prefer the latter but either way will work. [/QUOTE]
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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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