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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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<blockquote data-quote="Chromatic" data-source="post: 8214298" data-attributes="member: 659121"><p>I like that PPI amp.. it's cheaper new.. It's class D (I like the new tech).. It's small enough to fit,.. And rates 145watts x 4 at 14.4 volts,.. but at 12v is 100watts v 4 (IIRC).. which of these two ratings is more likely to be accurate? I know what the car runs with alternator going turned on.. which is upper 14 volt range. Either way, 100 or 145 is enough for my application, both on the fronts, and the sub (I only need 150watts for the sub). BUT, the more headroom I have, imo, the better. I want to set the gains as low as is possible while still providing proper power. So 145 on say 100watt speakers will be nice on the gains,.. and 150watts on bridged channel 3/4 out of 450watts (at 14.4v) possible will really let me keep that gain low.</p><p></p><p>Anyone else prefer that PPI over the Kenwood eXcelon amp that is $299 ? <a href="http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/2012_Car_Entertainment/XR-4S" target="_blank">Kenwood - XR-4S</a></p><p></p><p>I'm about 99% set on an 8" sub,.. but could at the last second move to 10". I sort of would like a bass knob that many of the newer amps have (i know it's gimmicky).. but ONLY because I'd like to be able to have an analog control that's handy to make on the fly adjustment to the bass. One of my bigger concerns is even with an 8" JL sub at 150watts.. it will be too much bass for what I'm after,.. and won't be incredibly easy to adjust downwards (maybe my Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD amp with it's 6 band parametric EQ built in, built in high pass and low pass filters,.. and direct Subwoofer control and levels (From Sub RCA pre-outs) may be enough to adjust the sub by itself) ?? Here's the headunit I have in the car: <a href="http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0W23Fzzj1mx/p_130AVHP410/Pioneer-AVH-P4100DVD.html#overview-tab" target="_blank">Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD DVD receiver at Crutchfield.com</a></p><p></p><p>But, obviously.. a bass knob is NOT going to rule what amp I purchase,..</p><p></p><p>So,.. with the PPI amp you recommend (which I like very much),.. and an 8" JL Audio sub in a sealed enclosure, with $200-300 set of 6.5" components with likely a 1" tweeter running at ~100 watts RMS per speaker -- Will I be able to tune it in bass to mid/high's to my liking? IE: If I feel the bass is too much after I set it up,.. I can literally tune the sub down from being barely audible up to ridiculous punch (not what I'm after).</p><p></p><p>I'm thinking yes.. between the amp with it's features + the Headunit I'm using which is feature rich with separate RCA Sub pre-out that is very adjustable even on the touch screen of the Headunit that too much bass from the sub shouldn't be an issue for me.</p><p></p><p>I understand crossovers.. but just refreshen me on this particular PPI 900.4 amp and it's bandpass crossover function(s).. what exactly will I be able to fine tune/control that the Kenwood for example wouldn't allow?</p><p></p><p>I may go active a few months down the road,.. but I'm starting passive, and it's going to be a 2.1 system in a 2 seater sports car (350Z).. I'm looking for a better sound than the factory clarion 10watt speakers with blown tweeters.. Pretty much anything I put in this car is going to blow me away,.. So you know. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p><p></p><p>Thanks</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chromatic, post: 8214298, member: 659121"] I like that PPI amp.. it's cheaper new.. It's class D (I like the new tech).. It's small enough to fit,.. And rates 145watts x 4 at 14.4 volts,.. but at 12v is 100watts v 4 (IIRC).. which of these two ratings is more likely to be accurate? I know what the car runs with alternator going turned on.. which is upper 14 volt range. Either way, 100 or 145 is enough for my application, both on the fronts, and the sub (I only need 150watts for the sub). BUT, the more headroom I have, imo, the better. I want to set the gains as low as is possible while still providing proper power. So 145 on say 100watt speakers will be nice on the gains,.. and 150watts on bridged channel 3/4 out of 450watts (at 14.4v) possible will really let me keep that gain low. Anyone else prefer that PPI over the Kenwood eXcelon amp that is $299 ? [URL="http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/2012_Car_Entertainment/XR-4S"]Kenwood - XR-4S[/URL] I'm about 99% set on an 8" sub,.. but could at the last second move to 10". I sort of would like a bass knob that many of the newer amps have (i know it's gimmicky).. but ONLY because I'd like to be able to have an analog control that's handy to make on the fly adjustment to the bass. One of my bigger concerns is even with an 8" JL sub at 150watts.. it will be too much bass for what I'm after,.. and won't be incredibly easy to adjust downwards (maybe my Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD amp with it's 6 band parametric EQ built in, built in high pass and low pass filters,.. and direct Subwoofer control and levels (From Sub RCA pre-outs) may be enough to adjust the sub by itself) ?? Here's the headunit I have in the car: [URL="http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0W23Fzzj1mx/p_130AVHP410/Pioneer-AVH-P4100DVD.html#overview-tab"]Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD DVD receiver at Crutchfield.com[/URL] But, obviously.. a bass knob is NOT going to rule what amp I purchase,.. So,.. with the PPI amp you recommend (which I like very much),.. and an 8" JL Audio sub in a sealed enclosure, with $200-300 set of 6.5" components with likely a 1" tweeter running at ~100 watts RMS per speaker -- Will I be able to tune it in bass to mid/high's to my liking? IE: If I feel the bass is too much after I set it up,.. I can literally tune the sub down from being barely audible up to ridiculous punch (not what I'm after). I'm thinking yes.. between the amp with it's features + the Headunit I'm using which is feature rich with separate RCA Sub pre-out that is very adjustable even on the touch screen of the Headunit that too much bass from the sub shouldn't be an issue for me. I understand crossovers.. but just refreshen me on this particular PPI 900.4 amp and it's bandpass crossover function(s).. what exactly will I be able to fine tune/control that the Kenwood for example wouldn't allow? I may go active a few months down the road,.. but I'm starting passive, and it's going to be a 2.1 system in a 2 seater sports car (350Z).. I'm looking for a better sound than the factory clarion 10watt speakers with blown tweeters.. Pretty much anything I put in this car is going to blow me away,.. So you know. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] Thanks [/QUOTE]
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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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