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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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<blockquote data-quote="Chromatic" data-source="post: 8213456" data-attributes="member: 659121"><p>Thanks for the advice/wisdom both of you!</p><p></p><p>Here's the thing. I really like this amp,.. I"ll admit, the Kenwood brand,. given I ran a system 5 years pounding on 2 , 100watt Kenwood A/B amps and 1 Kenwood 300watt A/B amps (2 of them were refurbished.. (at that time my friends older brother worked at the audio shop.. so made sure I was taken care of on the install.. don't have such a connection these days unfortunately).</p><p></p><p>But.. All I remember was those Kenwood amps were solid,.. never a problem.. ever. No clipping, no shutting off in 105degree heat here.. and I wasn't the gentlest on that system. So I assume it was probably dialed in properly,.. disallowing me to "break it" in a manner of speaking. I , at that time, just thought Gains were basically volume (or power knobs) on the amps.. could only set them with a flat head screw driver.. I never touched them. Kenwood in home audio has also been good to me,.. so you get it.</p><p></p><p>So this: Kenwood XR-4S eXcelon Four Channel Amp Digital Car Amplifier 4-3-2 Ch Switchable (Link)</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/2012_Car_Entertainment/XR-4S" target="_blank">Kenwood - XR-4S</a></p><p></p><p>Seems to be a CEA-2006 hit.. -- But this amp seems like a winner to me,.. It is perfect for my application,.. gives me headroom.. 20watts per speaker on the two fronts (As this amp runs 120watts @ 4 ohms RMS).. and 150 watts headroom on the sub (amp bridges to 300watts @4ohms RMS). I'm really just about locked into going 8" sub in sealed enclosure instead of 10" sub.</p><p></p><p>Tell me now, or forever hold your peace //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif -- if that Kenwood amp is not a decent midrange amp?</p><p></p><p>I probably won't go the refurbished route with it,.. though it's tempting,.. but it runs $299 (maybe cheaper if I shop).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chromatic, post: 8213456, member: 659121"] Thanks for the advice/wisdom both of you! Here's the thing. I really like this amp,.. I"ll admit, the Kenwood brand,. given I ran a system 5 years pounding on 2 , 100watt Kenwood A/B amps and 1 Kenwood 300watt A/B amps (2 of them were refurbished.. (at that time my friends older brother worked at the audio shop.. so made sure I was taken care of on the install.. don't have such a connection these days unfortunately). But.. All I remember was those Kenwood amps were solid,.. never a problem.. ever. No clipping, no shutting off in 105degree heat here.. and I wasn't the gentlest on that system. So I assume it was probably dialed in properly,.. disallowing me to "break it" in a manner of speaking. I , at that time, just thought Gains were basically volume (or power knobs) on the amps.. could only set them with a flat head screw driver.. I never touched them. Kenwood in home audio has also been good to me,.. so you get it. So this: Kenwood XR-4S eXcelon Four Channel Amp Digital Car Amplifier 4-3-2 Ch Switchable (Link) [URL="http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/2012_Car_Entertainment/XR-4S"]Kenwood - XR-4S[/URL] Seems to be a CEA-2006 hit.. -- But this amp seems like a winner to me,.. It is perfect for my application,.. gives me headroom.. 20watts per speaker on the two fronts (As this amp runs 120watts @ 4 ohms RMS).. and 150 watts headroom on the sub (amp bridges to 300watts @4ohms RMS). I'm really just about locked into going 8" sub in sealed enclosure instead of 10" sub. Tell me now, or forever hold your peace [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] -- if that Kenwood amp is not a decent midrange amp? I probably won't go the refurbished route with it,.. though it's tempting,.. but it runs $299 (maybe cheaper if I shop). [/QUOTE]
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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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