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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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<blockquote data-quote="Chromatic" data-source="post: 8213197" data-attributes="member: 659121"><p>lol.. I'm just trying to use what I have available. I have a few DMM's.. I use them all the time for work. I'll leave the yardstick for tuning the parabolic EQ (kidding).</p><p></p><p></p><p>Thanks.. means a lot.. considering I've only been researching this for a 5-10 days. And,.. I just guessed that the other shops would probably not be using the O-scopes etc.. and some not even DMM's.. but , well, ya know.. that's the way it goes in the world. Anyone Joe Schmoe can setup shop, and worse hire people who have little to no knowledge for minimum wage. Then charge you $100 an hour for their $8 an hour work.</p><p></p><p></p><p>But, we both know it's the best I can do... and it isn't justifiable to purchase equipment that cost as much as the "system" I will be installing or more to tune a single amp. I'm going to have to take that risk,.. but perhaps I can search around and tune it myself,.. then if I can find someone with the equipment get it checked and dialed in a little better by someone who knows what they are doing with the right equip.</p><p></p><p>The amp I'm leaning toward has a bass "knob" (may be silly and impractical.. or even dangerous.. I don't know.. but it's there). In particular the Kenwood that I found on this forum looks absolutely perfect, it feel intuitively RIGHT to me.. I hope it's of high enough quality and doesn't get shot down by others here.</p><p></p><p>But good advice on googling others with this Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD headunit.. It's a really popular unit, especially in the 350Z due to the way it fits in the factory slot. So maybe I will find those values for clipping. Otherwise,.. 80% it is.</p><p></p><p>Question: Setting EQ's to flat.. Is that all levels to zero on the EQ itself,.. or just flat as in all EQ settings across the range even?</p><p></p><p></p><p>That's where I got the tracks I have. So good deal,.. coming from you I know they are solid. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Ok now you say after I do the test tracks.. I'd then disconnect the speakers and set the amplifier crossovers, bass boosts, and other such settings? Do you mind explaining that a little more for me? IE: Reason for disconnecting speakers before setting those values? And is it just for "Safety" .. set values (Ie: Highpass on the fronts on the amp to say 100 or 120hz cutoff,. ).. (Lowpass for the single sub on the bridged 3/4 channel to something like what.. 80hz and below? Or should I match frequencies .. say 100hz and up for fronts (which will be separated again by passive crossover to separate the upper range for tweeter and lower range for 6.5 woofer), and then set the sub at 100Hz and down (so there isn't a 20hz gap missed?).</p><p></p><p></p><p>Ok interesting.. So basically I'll be dialing in 20volts.. Then to be safe,.. drop the gain down a touch till it hits 18-19v ?</p><p></p><p>I am not a member on his forum, But I"ll certainly look into it. I'll dial it in myself,.. I'm pretty confident if I set it up at 80% volume, everything set to zero/flat -- and run a volt or two under on the DMM, I'm probably in the safe range. Further I'm not going to be cranking this up anyways. It is my understanding clipping occurs as you increase volume on the headunit which increases the amplifier voltage and thus pushes the rails to potential flattening of the crest and troughs,.. so the lower the volumes the less potential for such clipping. That last statement I just typed sounded incredibly "Captain Obvious" .. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p><p></p><p>Appreciate all your sage advice,</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chromatic, post: 8213197, member: 659121"] lol.. I'm just trying to use what I have available. I have a few DMM's.. I use them all the time for work. I'll leave the yardstick for tuning the parabolic EQ (kidding). Thanks.. means a lot.. considering I've only been researching this for a 5-10 days. And,.. I just guessed that the other shops would probably not be using the O-scopes etc.. and some not even DMM's.. but , well, ya know.. that's the way it goes in the world. Anyone Joe Schmoe can setup shop, and worse hire people who have little to no knowledge for minimum wage. Then charge you $100 an hour for their $8 an hour work. But, we both know it's the best I can do... and it isn't justifiable to purchase equipment that cost as much as the "system" I will be installing or more to tune a single amp. I'm going to have to take that risk,.. but perhaps I can search around and tune it myself,.. then if I can find someone with the equipment get it checked and dialed in a little better by someone who knows what they are doing with the right equip. The amp I'm leaning toward has a bass "knob" (may be silly and impractical.. or even dangerous.. I don't know.. but it's there). In particular the Kenwood that I found on this forum looks absolutely perfect, it feel intuitively RIGHT to me.. I hope it's of high enough quality and doesn't get shot down by others here. But good advice on googling others with this Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD headunit.. It's a really popular unit, especially in the 350Z due to the way it fits in the factory slot. So maybe I will find those values for clipping. Otherwise,.. 80% it is. Question: Setting EQ's to flat.. Is that all levels to zero on the EQ itself,.. or just flat as in all EQ settings across the range even? That's where I got the tracks I have. So good deal,.. coming from you I know they are solid. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] Ok now you say after I do the test tracks.. I'd then disconnect the speakers and set the amplifier crossovers, bass boosts, and other such settings? Do you mind explaining that a little more for me? IE: Reason for disconnecting speakers before setting those values? And is it just for "Safety" .. set values (Ie: Highpass on the fronts on the amp to say 100 or 120hz cutoff,. ).. (Lowpass for the single sub on the bridged 3/4 channel to something like what.. 80hz and below? Or should I match frequencies .. say 100hz and up for fronts (which will be separated again by passive crossover to separate the upper range for tweeter and lower range for 6.5 woofer), and then set the sub at 100Hz and down (so there isn't a 20hz gap missed?). Ok interesting.. So basically I'll be dialing in 20volts.. Then to be safe,.. drop the gain down a touch till it hits 18-19v ? I am not a member on his forum, But I"ll certainly look into it. I'll dial it in myself,.. I'm pretty confident if I set it up at 80% volume, everything set to zero/flat -- and run a volt or two under on the DMM, I'm probably in the safe range. Further I'm not going to be cranking this up anyways. It is my understanding clipping occurs as you increase volume on the headunit which increases the amplifier voltage and thus pushes the rails to potential flattening of the crest and troughs,.. so the lower the volumes the less potential for such clipping. That last statement I just typed sounded incredibly "Captain Obvious" .. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] Appreciate all your sage advice, [/QUOTE]
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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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