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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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<blockquote data-quote="bbeljefe" data-source="post: 8213027" data-attributes="member: 655960"><p>I'm not telling you not to use a DMM... it's your system and you can use a yard stick to set your gains if you like. I'm just sharing information to the best of my knowledge in the hopes that people are able to learn as much as possible about this hobby/obsession some of us have. ;-)</p><p></p><p>And I'm also not trying to send you to a store that can't do any better than you can (and trust me, you have a better understanding of this than a plurality of installers), nor am I asking you to drive to my store.</p><p></p><p>That said, the DMM method is not reliable. ← Dead horse, I know. But that's not to say it can't or shouldn't be used in the absence of the proper equipment, because it will certainly get you closer than the by ear method. But again, if there is any distortion in the system, it won't detect it, regardless of how far below the rails you set the gain... and a clipped signal is not good even when it isn't on the rails.</p><p></p><p>With all that said, here's what I would do if I were forced to use a DMM for gain setting. First, I'd try to find out if someone else has tested my head unit model for clipping. A google query works well. If I found that information, that's where I'd set it and if not, Id set it at ~80% with all tonal controls and eqs flat, and with no crossovers set. Also, no loudness contours or bass boost circuits on an I would find out if my subwoofer level control had a boost circuit or if, when turned all the way up, it was at 0dB. And then I'd set it at whatever the 0dB point is.</p><p></p><p>I'd go to D'Amore Engineering's website and download the DD-1 CD test tracks (free), most importantly tracks 1 &amp; 2 which are 40Hz @ 0dB and 1kHz @ 0dB. I'd use those tracks because they are known to be clean. Then I'd set the amplifier crossovers, bass boosts, et al just like I did the head unit's and I would disconnect all speakers.</p><p></p><p>And then, of course, I'd go about setting the gain to max output less one or two volts. That would be as close to accurate as I could get while still taking advantage of my amplifiers' potential.</p><p></p><p>Just an afterthought or two... when you hear distortion, it has been a problem for a while. This is why the "by ear" method is not advisable. All of the Pioneer head unit's I've tested have clipped at 48 or 9 on the volume scale or, ~80% but, I've not tested yours. Lastly, if you're a member of Steve Meade's forum, there is a thread that has a tool map of sorts which shows various people all over the world who own oscopes, distortion detectors and other test equipment. I know there are some of those people in Alabama and a lot of them will help you for gas money, beer or ~$25.00. Some will help for free.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bbeljefe, post: 8213027, member: 655960"] I'm not telling you not to use a DMM... it's your system and you can use a yard stick to set your gains if you like. I'm just sharing information to the best of my knowledge in the hopes that people are able to learn as much as possible about this hobby/obsession some of us have. ;-) And I'm also not trying to send you to a store that can't do any better than you can (and trust me, you have a better understanding of this than a plurality of installers), nor am I asking you to drive to my store. That said, the DMM method is not reliable. ← Dead horse, I know. But that's not to say it can't or shouldn't be used in the absence of the proper equipment, because it will certainly get you closer than the by ear method. But again, if there is any distortion in the system, it won't detect it, regardless of how far below the rails you set the gain... and a clipped signal is not good even when it isn't on the rails. With all that said, here's what I would do if I were forced to use a DMM for gain setting. First, I'd try to find out if someone else has tested my head unit model for clipping. A google query works well. If I found that information, that's where I'd set it and if not, Id set it at ~80% with all tonal controls and eqs flat, and with no crossovers set. Also, no loudness contours or bass boost circuits on an I would find out if my subwoofer level control had a boost circuit or if, when turned all the way up, it was at 0dB. And then I'd set it at whatever the 0dB point is. I'd go to D'Amore Engineering's website and download the DD-1 CD test tracks (free), most importantly tracks 1 & 2 which are 40Hz @ 0dB and 1kHz @ 0dB. I'd use those tracks because they are known to be clean. Then I'd set the amplifier crossovers, bass boosts, et al just like I did the head unit's and I would disconnect all speakers. And then, of course, I'd go about setting the gain to max output less one or two volts. That would be as close to accurate as I could get while still taking advantage of my amplifiers' potential. Just an afterthought or two... when you hear distortion, it has been a problem for a while. This is why the "by ear" method is not advisable. All of the Pioneer head unit's I've tested have clipped at 48 or 9 on the volume scale or, ~80% but, I've not tested yours. Lastly, if you're a member of Steve Meade's forum, there is a thread that has a tool map of sorts which shows various people all over the world who own oscopes, distortion detectors and other test equipment. I know there are some of those people in Alabama and a lot of them will help you for gas money, beer or ~$25.00. Some will help for free. [/QUOTE]
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I know DEAD HORSE.. but if you feel like it,.. Help me with Class A/B vs Class D.
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