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Hyundai Cilantro.. I mean Elantra!
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<blockquote data-quote="audiobaun" data-source="post: 8786027" data-attributes="member: 634282"><p>I dont use L brackets to hold down a heavy sub box with subs in it. they really are not as strong as you think they are. And when you open that trunk they are exposed and UGLY as HELL LOL. Easy for a thief to cut the bracket as well as to unscrew them and snagg the enclosure( Its happened to me in the past). I make a false floor(use the existing cardboard insert for a templet ) out of 3/4" plywood and make sure its a tight fit. Ill find a couple places the screw it down.Put the existing Card board inset with carpet back in. Take each sub out and screw down the enclosure down with 3/4 inch Star head ( or square head)deck screws, use the same for the subs and mounting down your amps. The 3/4 plywood will give you some stability and the ability to mount the amp board structure as well. It will be like a one full structure and time consuming issue to remove anything for a thief. I removed my spare tire and found another place for it. You can do a lot with wood and 3M adheasive spray and speaker box carpet and a wood or heavy plastic type roller(same as you use for rolling out deadner with or Equiv.). When mounting your amps.. put some aluminum 1/2-1" spacers with small washers when screwing down to look nice as well as giving some space under the amplifiers to get some air to run a bit cooler(especially in trunk placement). You can use washers as well Like 3-5 also. Keeps the heat temps down on the amplifier underneath. Scroll fan can be used as I use to blow under the amps to help move the heat . Get a high cfm itll be in the trunk so you will not hear it much at all. I use Stinger/XS 8" and some 6"scroll fans. Cheap enough and easy to screw down easily and wire up at the distro blocks for power and supply and on/off on one of the remote connections of the amplifiers. I usually do it on the sub amp and not the Mids and highs just in case I hear any interference . Just my suggestions</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="audiobaun, post: 8786027, member: 634282"] I dont use L brackets to hold down a heavy sub box with subs in it. they really are not as strong as you think they are. And when you open that trunk they are exposed and UGLY as HELL LOL. Easy for a thief to cut the bracket as well as to unscrew them and snagg the enclosure( Its happened to me in the past). I make a false floor(use the existing cardboard insert for a templet ) out of 3/4" plywood and make sure its a tight fit. Ill find a couple places the screw it down.Put the existing Card board inset with carpet back in. Take each sub out and screw down the enclosure down with 3/4 inch Star head ( or square head)deck screws, use the same for the subs and mounting down your amps. The 3/4 plywood will give you some stability and the ability to mount the amp board structure as well. It will be like a one full structure and time consuming issue to remove anything for a thief. I removed my spare tire and found another place for it. You can do a lot with wood and 3M adheasive spray and speaker box carpet and a wood or heavy plastic type roller(same as you use for rolling out deadner with or Equiv.). When mounting your amps.. put some aluminum 1/2-1" spacers with small washers when screwing down to look nice as well as giving some space under the amplifiers to get some air to run a bit cooler(especially in trunk placement). You can use washers as well Like 3-5 also. Keeps the heat temps down on the amplifier underneath. Scroll fan can be used as I use to blow under the amps to help move the heat . Get a high cfm itll be in the trunk so you will not hear it much at all. I use Stinger/XS 8" and some 6"scroll fans. Cheap enough and easy to screw down easily and wire up at the distro blocks for power and supply and on/off on one of the remote connections of the amplifiers. I usually do it on the sub amp and not the Mids and highs just in case I hear any interference . Just my suggestions [/QUOTE]
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