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Hummer H1: Subwoofer enclosure built in to aftermarket aluminum container seat bases- thoughts and opinions please?
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8840532" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>Gross volume is around 1.5 cubic feet, I'd figure you're closer to 1 cube even after you figure in displacement of the woofer and whatever material you intend to use to turn those aluminum boxes into a rigid and airtight subwoofer cabinet. 1 cube isn't unreasonable for airspace for a 10" woofer sealed and overall sealed boxes are very forgiving as far as being off a bit in volume and still keeping close to "optimum" response. </p><p></p><p>Id say building up the walls with a few layers of fiberglass then using some MDF to make a baffle up top or in that side hole to mount the sub would be the best bet. Fiberglass materials isn't cheap and it's tedious work but I'm guessing you're not squeamish about spending money as this is not a cheap vehicle and you're coming out the gate thinking W7. </p><p></p><p>Really your big limiting factors here are going to be your vehicle. The position of those boxes in the vehicle are probably not going to be the best for acoustics and anything with a soft or semi-soft top is just not going to pressurize like a normal car. That said, even sky is the limit on what you're willing to do to get subwoofers in there you're coming off the line gimped by the vehicle. </p><p></p><p>I like kickpanels for installing mids and highs up front myself. Dash can be a bit iffy on whether or not it will work well. Most car audio branded speakers are designed to sound good off-axis (not aiming directly at you), so a really expensive component set if often the worst choice if you want to do that sort of mounting as the company who designed it built it around good response when mounted in or around the more usual factory locations. If mounting on-axis and up high first mock up some test boxes out of cardboard and put them up where you think you want them and make sure it doesn't interfere with your field of vision and you won't mind speaker pods up there then consider options buying components from Madisound or Parts Express... home theater type drivers will be designed for on-axis listening. Or if you're willing to buy some DSP option and do some tweaking you can probably use just about anything on or off-axis and brute force it with EQ and time alignment. </p><p></p><p>If this is all just a money is no object show car you may as well just take it to a shop that does high end custom fabrication go JL all around, their components are expensive but great sounding and high quality as is the W7 and their amps so you could keep aesthetics and at least rule out the equipment as the culprit if you're trying to chase down issues down the road. </p><p>Otherwise I'd have some other thoughts on gear, but I wouldn't be surprised if the custom install with full on deadening and custom fiberglass midrange/tweet pods + conversion of those aluminum things into boxes won't still be the larger share of your overall cost.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8840532, member: 614752"] Gross volume is around 1.5 cubic feet, I'd figure you're closer to 1 cube even after you figure in displacement of the woofer and whatever material you intend to use to turn those aluminum boxes into a rigid and airtight subwoofer cabinet. 1 cube isn't unreasonable for airspace for a 10" woofer sealed and overall sealed boxes are very forgiving as far as being off a bit in volume and still keeping close to "optimum" response. Id say building up the walls with a few layers of fiberglass then using some MDF to make a baffle up top or in that side hole to mount the sub would be the best bet. Fiberglass materials isn't cheap and it's tedious work but I'm guessing you're not squeamish about spending money as this is not a cheap vehicle and you're coming out the gate thinking W7. Really your big limiting factors here are going to be your vehicle. The position of those boxes in the vehicle are probably not going to be the best for acoustics and anything with a soft or semi-soft top is just not going to pressurize like a normal car. That said, even sky is the limit on what you're willing to do to get subwoofers in there you're coming off the line gimped by the vehicle. I like kickpanels for installing mids and highs up front myself. Dash can be a bit iffy on whether or not it will work well. Most car audio branded speakers are designed to sound good off-axis (not aiming directly at you), so a really expensive component set if often the worst choice if you want to do that sort of mounting as the company who designed it built it around good response when mounted in or around the more usual factory locations. If mounting on-axis and up high first mock up some test boxes out of cardboard and put them up where you think you want them and make sure it doesn't interfere with your field of vision and you won't mind speaker pods up there then consider options buying components from Madisound or Parts Express... home theater type drivers will be designed for on-axis listening. Or if you're willing to buy some DSP option and do some tweaking you can probably use just about anything on or off-axis and brute force it with EQ and time alignment. If this is all just a money is no object show car you may as well just take it to a shop that does high end custom fabrication go JL all around, their components are expensive but great sounding and high quality as is the W7 and their amps so you could keep aesthetics and at least rule out the equipment as the culprit if you're trying to chase down issues down the road. Otherwise I'd have some other thoughts on gear, but I wouldn't be surprised if the custom install with full on deadening and custom fiberglass midrange/tweet pods + conversion of those aluminum things into boxes won't still be the larger share of your overall cost. [/QUOTE]
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Hummer H1: Subwoofer enclosure built in to aftermarket aluminum container seat bases- thoughts and opinions please?
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