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<blockquote data-quote="Prowler573" data-source="post: 1627930" data-attributes="member: 561023">First of all, you will need power and ground cabling. What amps are you wanting to run, exactly? You will also need additional cabling (of not nearly as large a gauge as the power/ground cables) for remote activation. More on this later...How many sets of RCA preamp outputs does the deck you&#039;re wanting to use (if any)?If there are none you will need a line output converter which splices into your radio&#039;s speaker wires and converts that signal to RCA-level preamp output to be fed to the amplifiers. If there are preamp outputs on the radio then you will not need this converter and can disregard this section of my post.You will need RCA interconnect cables to carry signal to your amps from the stereo. The length of these that you need will be determined by how far away from the radio these are to be mounted.If your stereo only has one set of RCA outputs and you aren&#039;t going to run an outboard crossover or EQ then you&#039;ll need a set of RCA Y-splitters to divide the single set of RCA outputs to two feeds for both sets of interconnects.You&#039;ll want to run the power and ground cabling to both amps and attach them to the appropriate terminals on each amp. You&#039;ll want to run the smaller cabling (can be as small as you like - this doesn&#039;t need to carry alot of current...just carry current, period) from the remote accessory activation output on your head unit to the remote turn-on input on both amps. If you&#039;re using a stock head unit that isn&#039;t fitted with an output like this you&#039;ll want to find another way to get the amps to turn on and off so they aren&#039;t powered all the time. One such method is connecting that remote turn-on wire to a fuse in the car&#039;s fusebox that only has power when the ignition is keyed. Another method is running it from the battery with a toggle switch or similar device inline so that you can determine when the amps are on yourself.Anything else you need further details on please feel free to ask. The above is a very general outline and is missing an incredible amount of detail. I&#039;ll let you sort out for yourself what else you&#039;d like to know.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Prowler573, post: 1627930, member: 561023"] First of all, you will need power and ground cabling. What amps are you wanting to run, exactly? You will also need additional cabling (of not nearly as large a gauge as the power/ground cables) for remote activation. More on this later... How many sets of RCA preamp outputs does the deck you're wanting to use (if any)? If there are none you will need a line output converter which splices into your radio's speaker wires and converts that signal to RCA-level preamp output to be fed to the amplifiers. If there [I]are[/I] preamp outputs on the radio then you will not need this converter and can disregard this section of my post. You will need RCA interconnect cables to carry signal to your amps from the stereo. The length of these that you need will be determined by how far away from the radio these are to be mounted. If your stereo only has one set of RCA outputs and you aren't going to run an outboard crossover or EQ then you'll need a set of RCA Y-splitters to divide the single set of RCA outputs to two feeds for both sets of interconnects. You'll want to run the power and ground cabling to both amps and attach them to the appropriate terminals on each amp. You'll want to run the smaller cabling (can be as small as you like - this doesn't need to carry [I]alot[/I] of current...just carry current, period) from the remote accessory activation output on your head unit to the remote turn-on input on both amps. If you're using a stock head unit that isn't fitted with an output like this you'll want to find another way to get the amps to turn on and off so they aren't powered all the time. One such method is connecting that remote turn-on wire to a fuse in the car's fusebox that only has power when the ignition is keyed. Another method is running it from the battery with a toggle switch or similar device inline so that you can determine when the amps are on yourself. Anything else you need further details on please feel free to ask. The above is a very general outline and is missing an incredible amount of detail. I'll let you sort out for yourself what else you'd like to know. [/QUOTE]

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