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<blockquote data-quote="Thnking" data-source="post: 2491465" data-attributes="member: 571105">I know circuitry meant to limit voltage and current isn’t going to alleviate all problems with over current/voltage.&nbsp; I never said they do, there are 2 separate issues here and you’ve lumped them together.1.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; Rail voltage –&amp;gt; over-voltage and under-voltage limiting.2.&nbsp; &nbsp; Improper setting of gains or improper heat sinking.The limiting circuitry is going protect the amplifier from under voltage or over voltage on the power supply (ie #1).&nbsp; Either the circuitry is going to mute the amp, or resistors are going to blow *(there are more techniques to this).&nbsp; You’re incorrectly referencing #2 as being the same as #1.Efficiency of the amplifier is defined as V*A in vs. V*A out.&nbsp; Dropping voltage isn’t necessarily decreasing efficiency.&nbsp;&nbsp; If voltage drops on the PS, load current increases.&nbsp; V*A remains typically the same.&nbsp; Heat is generated by work done, V*A*time.&nbsp; Increasing current while potential drops doesn’t mean more heat is generated.&nbsp; This is basic Ohms law stuff.&nbsp; Do you understand this now?&nbsp; This is why you’re wrong.It’s easy to increase idle RPM at the throttle for most cars.&nbsp; Mine idles at 2.2K RPM.&nbsp; Someone can also have the alt. manufacturer increase low RPM current output at the alternator.&nbsp; Usually someone like Dominic I. can do it for around 30$.&nbsp; Something like a 200A alternator can easily be adjusted to output 100-130A at idle RPM per car.&nbsp; That translates into probably around a 2000-3000watt “RMS” system begin used at idle, and is ridiculously loud.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Thnking, post: 2491465, member: 571105"] I know circuitry meant to limit voltage and current isn’t going to alleviate all problems with over current/voltage. I never said they do, there are 2 separate issues here and you’ve lumped them together. 1. Rail voltage –> over-voltage and under-voltage limiting. 2. Improper setting of gains or improper heat sinking. The limiting circuitry is going protect the amplifier from under voltage or over voltage on the power supply (ie #1). Either the circuitry is going to mute the amp, or resistors are going to blow *(there are more techniques to this). You’re incorrectly referencing #2 as being the same as #1. Efficiency of the amplifier is defined as V*A in vs. V*A out. Dropping voltage isn’t necessarily decreasing efficiency. If voltage drops on the PS, load current increases. V*A remains typically the same. Heat is generated by work done, V*A*time. Increasing current while potential drops doesn’t mean more heat is generated. This is basic Ohms law stuff. Do you understand this now? This is why you’re wrong. It’s easy to increase idle RPM at the throttle for most cars. Mine idles at 2.2K RPM. Someone can also have the alt. manufacturer increase low RPM current output at the alternator. Usually someone like Dominic I. can do it for around 30$. Something like a 200A alternator can easily be adjusted to output 100-130A at idle RPM per car. That translates into probably around a 2000-3000watt “RMS” system begin used at idle, and is ridiculously loud. [/QUOTE]

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