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how to run a 2nd bat.
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<blockquote data-quote="Thnking" data-source="post: 2482330" data-attributes="member: 571105"><p>Super capacitor banks (with similar capacity as batteries) are going to be phasing out batteries in the near future.</p><p></p><p>So?</p><p></p><p>Internal components become damaged because of excess voltage-current. If the voltage drops, and the current is increased, the VA stays relatively the same. If voltage is increased and current is lowered, VA stays relatively the same. If an amplifier is blowing transformers or the board is overheating, it’s because too much power is being generated. The person has the gains incorrectly set per the load…</p><p></p><p>Any modern amplifier worth anything has under/over voltage protection. IE: if the supply voltage is increased too high, rail voltage is too high the protective circuitry shuts the amp down or some resistors are blown. If supply voltage drops too low, rail voltage is too low, the amp shuts down or some resistors are blown.</p><p></p><p>Again, the gains are set improperly if the amplifier overheats given the amplifier has sufficient heat sinking. But the same thing would have happened if voltage didn’t drop a couple of volts… power dissipated is voltage * current, not current alone or voltage alone. The voltage dropping is circumstantial to the amplifier overheating.</p><p></p><p>Amplifiers 101.</p><p></p><p>A .5V increase in supply voltage isn’t going to eliminate amplifiers from overheating, the difference was in the amps.</p><p></p><p>And if batteries are swelling, it’s either because of construction or because they are being discharged much too low and then charged much too fast. Buying larger batteries isn’t going to make the problem go away, the charging system either needs to go with a higher output alternator to reduce drops, or needs to go with a battery bank source with a properly sized alternator to retain charge. This is basic stuff that you are misrepresenting.</p><p></p><p>You’re like one of those self diagnosing patients; you read some information and convince yourself of a completely wrong cause of the symptom.</p><p></p><p>Sure they can, when they are properly sized. If they aren’t and the stator excites to a full field, it’s a different story, but the field can be fluxed to output current to meet load less than 10 milliseconds.</p><p></p><p>I’m against capacitors in car audio. ESR is going to be the same in a capacitor as it is in a 12V battery…usually much more in the battery.</p><p></p><p>Exactly, which is why alternators can easily be matched to the load. Additional batteries aren’t needed unless the load exceeds the source, which is basically only in competitions.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Thnking, post: 2482330, member: 571105"] Super capacitor banks (with similar capacity as batteries) are going to be phasing out batteries in the near future. So? Internal components become damaged because of excess voltage-current. If the voltage drops, and the current is increased, the VA stays relatively the same. If voltage is increased and current is lowered, VA stays relatively the same. If an amplifier is blowing transformers or the board is overheating, it’s because too much power is being generated. The person has the gains incorrectly set per the load… Any modern amplifier worth anything has under/over voltage protection. IE: if the supply voltage is increased too high, rail voltage is too high the protective circuitry shuts the amp down or some resistors are blown. If supply voltage drops too low, rail voltage is too low, the amp shuts down or some resistors are blown. Again, the gains are set improperly if the amplifier overheats given the amplifier has sufficient heat sinking. But the same thing would have happened if voltage didn’t drop a couple of volts… power dissipated is voltage * current, not current alone or voltage alone. The voltage dropping is circumstantial to the amplifier overheating. Amplifiers 101. A .5V increase in supply voltage isn’t going to eliminate amplifiers from overheating, the difference was in the amps. And if batteries are swelling, it’s either because of construction or because they are being discharged much too low and then charged much too fast. Buying larger batteries isn’t going to make the problem go away, the charging system either needs to go with a higher output alternator to reduce drops, or needs to go with a battery bank source with a properly sized alternator to retain charge. This is basic stuff that you are misrepresenting. You’re like one of those self diagnosing patients; you read some information and convince yourself of a completely wrong cause of the symptom. Sure they can, when they are properly sized. If they aren’t and the stator excites to a full field, it’s a different story, but the field can be fluxed to output current to meet load less than 10 milliseconds. I’m against capacitors in car audio. ESR is going to be the same in a capacitor as it is in a 12V battery…usually much more in the battery. Exactly, which is why alternators can easily be matched to the load. Additional batteries aren’t needed unless the load exceeds the source, which is basically only in competitions. [/QUOTE]
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