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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8924283" data-attributes="member: 689267">I think you may have missed the point.It's a matter of applied science, and your one-size-fits-all approach as the best initial solution is incorrect.Ever hear the expression, "thoughest protest too much"?Nobody said upgrading to an HO alt is crap, far from it.But I guarantee you my 12lb lithium solution is easier, more practical, MORE FUEL EFFICIENT, will outperform up to a point, and is less labor intensive and applicable in as many ways as your HO alt solution - for 2k-3k systems.Not sure why you feel that most people will actually see the kinds of draws that are theoretically possible; they are rarely going to the kind of draw that one sees in SPL builds (and I know how to do those too).And hey, if they do or actually think they might, then by all means consider both an auxiliary battery, a large capacitor of 50 farads or more, or lithium to go along with all that additional output!Nobody said an HO is a bad thing or that you shouldn't do it, but as the first thing, nah, you are out of the loop, stuck in a time that gave people few alternatives that are available these days.I prefer my approach, you prefer yours, but saying everyone else is wrong, that confuses those who are looking for information to engage people on a subject that too often than not, gets a my-way-or-highway approach.HO alternators will never replace lithium or large supercaps for large instantaneous electrical support for BASS reinforcement: it's not instantaneous, and it's limited by it's max output, so it's really not even close.Batteries on their own will not replace the need for HO alternators, in systems where you start to exceed the ability of good Lithium support to fill the gap.A 5 farad fcap does do a bit, but it's not substantial; that is a measurable thing, like it or not. I'm all for using capacitors in the right setting, but why would anyone spend $175 to $250.00 on a 5-10 farad capacitor when, for $350.00, you can get 500-650 farad supercapacitors?On that same note, an AH rating is irrelevant (almost anyway) unless you need a lot of storage; it's not a functional spec comparatively, it's quite literally the size of the battery's fuel tank.AH specifications are simply a measurement of "Ampere-Hours" in that it's a measurement of the battery's total energy capacity. Specifically, it indicates how many amps of continuous current a battery can supply over one hour before running out of charge.It won't tell you how well it will regulate voltage, how fast it can provide an instantaneous burst or constant draw,  it's quite literally the battery's fuel tank, not the motor.A 200AH AGM battery will lag far behind the performance of a 12AH GloweVoltage Series 3; the performance of a GV will destroy it.We all have something to share from years of experience, heck, I've got 3 generations of electrical engineering backing the talk, so there is that.45+ years in loudspeaker design and home and car audio, we've all got stuff to contribute.That's some substantial hands-on applied electrical theory and sound recording experience, and it's all basically math, and the math doesn't lie.I've seen your work, appreciate the build quality and dedication to the craft, but the only "best way" to do anything is to analyze the needs based on sound (electrical) theory, because the one-size-fits-all approach is just not an accurate way to approach something that has so many variables.Presenting one's ideas as possible solutions as you see them and for reasons that are backed by sound electrical theory, is a great thing.Steering people in the one direction you're comfortable with, when it's limited in scope and application, and proclaiming it's "the" way, that's just being stubborn.</blockquote>

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