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How I made my speakers louder, FOR CHEAP!!!
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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 8153516" data-attributes="member: 576029"><p>yes, the approach is valid. using closed cell foams, the seals are air-tight.</p><p></p><p>seals are vital for any speaker installation and two are required:</p><p></p><p>1. seal speaker to metal mounting hole</p><p></p><p>2. seal speaker to plastic factory door panel</p><p></p><p>note that in a car door, the door panel is the front of the speaker enclosure. that seal is vital for good speaker performance, at any price, and i consider that seal a requirement for every installation - no exceptions.</p><p></p><p>always seal the speaker to the front of the baffle (which in vehicles, the baffle is the door panel.)</p><p></p><p>even if you deaden and fully seal you door, you want that seal to the grill opening. without it sound gets behind the panel and causes buzzes and phase interference.</p><p></p><p>now, his approach isn't necessarily what you <strong>have</strong> to do, you don't need duct tape. weatherstripping foam is adhesive on one side so you can just stick it the basket or mounting baffle edge and build it up until you replicate the factory seal. use the factory speaker as your guide. you know you get a good seal when you take the door panel back off and see a continuous indentation in the foam.</p><p></p><p>always use closed cell foam rubber as it is firm and air-tight.</p><p></p><p>weatherstripping foam costs $3 for a roll that will do both speakers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 8153516, member: 576029"] yes, the approach is valid. using closed cell foams, the seals are air-tight. seals are vital for any speaker installation and two are required: 1. seal speaker to metal mounting hole 2. seal speaker to plastic factory door panel note that in a car door, the door panel is the front of the speaker enclosure. that seal is vital for good speaker performance, at any price, and i consider that seal a requirement for every installation - no exceptions. always seal the speaker to the front of the baffle (which in vehicles, the baffle is the door panel.) even if you deaden and fully seal you door, you want that seal to the grill opening. without it sound gets behind the panel and causes buzzes and phase interference. now, his approach isn't necessarily what you [B]have[/B] to do, you don't need duct tape. weatherstripping foam is adhesive on one side so you can just stick it the basket or mounting baffle edge and build it up until you replicate the factory seal. use the factory speaker as your guide. you know you get a good seal when you take the door panel back off and see a continuous indentation in the foam. always use closed cell foam rubber as it is firm and air-tight. weatherstripping foam costs $3 for a roll that will do both speakers. [/QUOTE]
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