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<blockquote data-quote="( . )( . )" data-source="post: 7915938" data-attributes="member: 619090">What size and coils are the L5&#039;s, 12D4? If they&#039;re 8&#039;s or 10&#039;s, don&#039;t bother. Final imp/ohm load would dictate the wiring, amp, and enclosure options.How will they be powered, pro audio or sub-plate amp? Number of channels, rated power, final load, built-in crossover(s), etc have impact on options too.Underpowered, probably ported low with big port area. Overpowered (headroom), your choice.I&#039;ve been using car audio subs in HT and in-home band/concert level stereo systems for a couple years now and, through research, and trial and error, have ended with excellent results.For HT, I currently run (4) 12&#039;s sealed off a Dayton plate amp with the subs inside the coat closet next to the TV and F.R. speaker. By front-firing and being the same distance away as the front speakers, the lows blend great and time-alignment is no issue. Sh*t slams, gets stupid low, and sounds incredible. It kinda works like a quasi-4th order with variable tuning, depending on how much/little the door is cracked opened.To get sick loud, I&#039;m also running (3) JL 18W6&#039;s IB off a Crown XLS2000, mated with a pair of Peavey PV215&#039;s on a Crown XTi1000, all crossed through a BBE 382iSW maximizer. I&#039;ve posted a few pics before, but here&#039;s an early photo taken right after initial installation. I still haven&#039;t built the cover yet, but I don&#039;t mind having them right there for all to see either //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif<img src="http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac165/spanyerd/IMG_0834.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />You don&#039;t have to spend a lot to end with great results either, but it definitely takes decent planning ahead of time. Good luck!.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="( . )( . ), post: 7915938, member: 619090"] What size and coils are the L5's, 12D4? If they're 8's or 10's, don't bother. Final imp/ohm load would dictate the wiring, amp, and enclosure options. How will they be powered, pro audio or sub-plate amp? Number of channels, rated power, final load, built-in crossover(s), etc have impact on options too. Underpowered, probably ported low with big port area. Overpowered (headroom), your choice. I've been using car audio subs in HT and in-home band/concert level stereo systems for a couple years now and, through research, and trial and error, have ended with excellent results. For HT, I currently run (4) 12's sealed off a Dayton plate amp with the subs inside the coat closet next to the TV and F.R. speaker. By front-firing and being the same distance away as the front speakers, the lows blend great and time-alignment is no issue. Sh*t slams, gets stupid low, and sounds incredible. It kinda works like a quasi-4th order with variable tuning, depending on how much/little the door is cracked opened. To get sick loud, I'm also running (3) JL 18W6's IB off a Crown XLS2000, mated with a pair of Peavey PV215's on a Crown XTi1000, all crossed through a BBE 382iSW maximizer. I've posted a few pics before, but here's an early photo taken right after initial installation. I still haven't built the cover yet, but I don't mind having them right there for all to see either [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac165/spanyerd/IMG_0834.jpg[/IMG] You don't have to spend a lot to end with great results either, but it definitely takes decent planning ahead of time. Good luck! . [/QUOTE]

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