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HO Alternator Idle Conundrum
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<blockquote data-quote="Buck" data-source="post: 8766690" data-attributes="member: 591582"><p>I wouldn't remove any of your factory grounds. You could check for corrosion on contact points and maybe clean them. If you want, you could add another ground wherever you think that the factory grounds are bad. I've seen and heard many times from long-time installers that sometimes people doing an extra motor to frame ground actually made a car run better, because the factory ground was so old or used up that it just wasn't flowing properly. Corrosion creates resistance, because the corrosion does not conduct electricity like when the metal is in good shape. Dirt and grime and things like that are the same, if it's on a contact surface.</p><p></p><p>Something you could look into is a real capacitor setup. There's some high quality capacitors that actually have a bit of storage, and that might help your idle voltage, if you get an actual proper setup. There's different types of batteries and power storage that work better than just AGM batteries, and they do cost more money (from what I've seen).</p><p></p><p>I ran all of my batteries on a closed loop system, basically, in multiple vehicles. I ran + and - directly from alt to directly from battery in the exact same sized wiring. Then from front/factory battery I ran both + and - in the same exact size to my battery bank. I did not ground to the frame with anything except the front batter and alt casing. The entire battery bank in the back went to the front battery.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buck, post: 8766690, member: 591582"] I wouldn't remove any of your factory grounds. You could check for corrosion on contact points and maybe clean them. If you want, you could add another ground wherever you think that the factory grounds are bad. I've seen and heard many times from long-time installers that sometimes people doing an extra motor to frame ground actually made a car run better, because the factory ground was so old or used up that it just wasn't flowing properly. Corrosion creates resistance, because the corrosion does not conduct electricity like when the metal is in good shape. Dirt and grime and things like that are the same, if it's on a contact surface. Something you could look into is a real capacitor setup. There's some high quality capacitors that actually have a bit of storage, and that might help your idle voltage, if you get an actual proper setup. There's different types of batteries and power storage that work better than just AGM batteries, and they do cost more money (from what I've seen). I ran all of my batteries on a closed loop system, basically, in multiple vehicles. I ran + and - directly from alt to directly from battery in the exact same sized wiring. Then from front/factory battery I ran both + and - in the same exact size to my battery bank. I did not ground to the frame with anything except the front batter and alt casing. The entire battery bank in the back went to the front battery. [/QUOTE]
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