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Message: <blockquote data-quote="shizzzon" data-source="post: 8268059" data-attributes="member: 590338">You're right because you just told everybody not to look at the specs on the winch or stereo.. then question how the winch n stereo test was better on the Northstar..  Hmm.. Interesting..   I guess i'll have to explain.There was no reserve test done so to have less reserve?  it was never given.aH- This is a test done over a 20hr period.The Northstar tested at 146 aH.  This means it can output 7.3A per hour.  That specification is worthless for the Winch or Stereo test.Reserve- While not tested, this is a test done using a 25A draw.  This would have been better, but still come up short for the "tests" in question.The stereo draw was 40A.  Hmm, not a standard range of testing a battery so we can't use any specifications of any battery to compare.So why complain the Northstar won over the Odyssey in the Winch test if the current draw, probably at least that of the stereo, was used?THERE IS NO battery standard test specification which one could compare for the stereo or winch at such a higher steady current draw so why disbelieve the test results?  Sounds like someone is being brand biased.I don't care who is better.  I'll run whatever fits the application.Then the CCA, CA, PCHA(not tested) and MA(not tested) were lower on the Northstar than the Odyssey.Ok.. So?  That would be NORMAL if the Northstar could handle lower current longer.There are only 2 types of AGM battery performance-  deep cycle and High current.  You can't have the best of both with like specs.Just like you can't have the best acceleration and top speed in other like spec'd vehicles.So the Northstar won in longevity, but falls short of high current discharge.That means in that test, the Odyssey would have a less voltage drop on high current demand= For Car Audio Use!However, you can look at the test and see the results.. But the test, like most done out there, doesn't account for one thing-Memory Cycling.You can't take a brand new battery and put it on some tests after just 0 or a couple cycles.To properly see what a battery can do, you take it out of the box and put it in the environment it will be used in.  Drain it down and charge it back up properly several cycles before it builds it's memory up.  If the battery is only going to be used for thing, for example- deep cycle, don't put the battery though a deep cycle AND a high current test before, during or after it retaining a memory.  IT will have an unfair outcome.So, these tests can be swapped around, it's results, by simply preparing the batteries ahead of time.One of the worst ways of comparing batteries is pulling them directly out of the box without cycling or testing or anything and doing comparisons.Nobody would have to do that test with enough experience-sense.Simply put- Higher priced AGMs are geared toward High Current discharge capability which equals lower voltage drop for car audio use.I stick with any brand who focuses on that vs just a big block of reserve that "can" handle some high current.Many people buy cheap batteries because it gets em by 2-3 yrs..  Well, i purchase batteries with the sense that i wont(Assuming no install change) need to change them for 10yrs. And usually i sell them and they are slightly better used within the first 1-2yrs because of it's retained memory cycle.  As long as the battery is still floating around 13.0-13.1v and has been used for a while..  It will be a very good battery.I've never seen or got a Deka to float over 12.9v in my life, the 9A31s, or Kinetik either.I've been able to maintain Batcap, Odyssey, XS and Northstar at or above 13v consistently.Dont' know if the Dekas or the one Kinetik i was playing around with was old or what but they just didn't want to float that high.</blockquote>

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