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hi pass and low pass - explain please
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<blockquote data-quote="helotaxi" data-source="post: 347746" data-attributes="member: 550915"><p>Just because the manufacturer says that the sub can play up to a certain frequency doesn't mean that it sounds good at that frequency. Also, imaging will suffer severely if you cross those subs over at 500hz. All the sound will seem to be coming from behind you. Not what you are looking for I would imagine. Because of the space required, you really can't expect your car setup to resemble your home system as far as layout and number of speakers and crossover points. You can get pretty much the same sound, you just have to have a slightly different approach.</p><p></p><p>Larger home speakers generally use a woofer (rather than a sub, there is a difference) with decent midrange extension. Add to that either a tweeter or an mid and a tweeter. All frequencies are divided by a passive crossover network. This works well because all the speakers are in front of you and the crossovers can be designed for the smoothest frequency response and a smooth transition between the different drivers.</p><p></p><p>Most car systems use a sub (crossed over somewhere below 80Hz with an active crossover and powered by its own amp), a midrange with decent midbass extension, and a tweeter. The highs are in front of you and the sub, because of space considerations, is usually somewhere behind you. Since you generally can't tell where frequencies below 80Hz are coming from, this isn't that big a deal. Getting a good transition between mid and tweet is pretty straightforward. A good component set or coaxial will take care of that. The trick is getting a good midbass transition between the mids and the sub.</p><p></p><p>How much are you willing to spend for a sub/amp combo? Once I know that I can you some specific suggestions.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="helotaxi, post: 347746, member: 550915"] Just because the manufacturer says that the sub can play up to a certain frequency doesn't mean that it sounds good at that frequency. Also, imaging will suffer severely if you cross those subs over at 500hz. All the sound will seem to be coming from behind you. Not what you are looking for I would imagine. Because of the space required, you really can't expect your car setup to resemble your home system as far as layout and number of speakers and crossover points. You can get pretty much the same sound, you just have to have a slightly different approach. Larger home speakers generally use a woofer (rather than a sub, there is a difference) with decent midrange extension. Add to that either a tweeter or an mid and a tweeter. All frequencies are divided by a passive crossover network. This works well because all the speakers are in front of you and the crossovers can be designed for the smoothest frequency response and a smooth transition between the different drivers. Most car systems use a sub (crossed over somewhere below 80Hz with an active crossover and powered by its own amp), a midrange with decent midbass extension, and a tweeter. The highs are in front of you and the sub, because of space considerations, is usually somewhere behind you. Since you generally can't tell where frequencies below 80Hz are coming from, this isn't that big a deal. Getting a good transition between mid and tweet is pretty straightforward. A good component set or coaxial will take care of that. The trick is getting a good midbass transition between the mids and the sub. How much are you willing to spend for a sub/amp combo? Once I know that I can you some specific suggestions. [/QUOTE]
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hi pass and low pass - explain please
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