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General Car Audio
Help With SQ Tuning
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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 8274000" data-attributes="member: 576029"><p>this is a hobby that tends to take over in the quest for better sound quality. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p><p></p><p>i think what you are getting hung up on is that you don't add power to tweeters + power to woofers together to get a total because there isn't an overlap in frequency ranges. consider the image below (random image of crossover slopes). the green line is the response of a woofer, the blue line is the response of a midrange driver, and the red line is the response of a tweeter. the crossover (electric or passive) limits the range of frequencies each driver will play. we we discuss amplifier power we also consider frequency. at 100Hz the amplifier sees only one speaker, the woofer. at 1000Hz the amplifier sees only one speaker, the midrange. and at 10000Hz the amplifier sees only one speaker, the tweeter.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.orpheuscomputing.com/images/crossover-slope.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>this is why 70W for tweeters and 70W for woofers is just 70W per side. the reason to go active, for many people, is not for more volume but for more control over the crossover point between the mid and tweeter and, if necessary, time alignment for the tweeters (if their crossover point is low). given your tweeter mounts (i make spheres but your idea is very similar), the tweeters are aimed at you and the nearest tweeter (driver's side) will need to be attenuated in order to center your soundstage properly.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 8274000, member: 576029"] this is a hobby that tends to take over in the quest for better sound quality. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] i think what you are getting hung up on is that you don't add power to tweeters + power to woofers together to get a total because there isn't an overlap in frequency ranges. consider the image below (random image of crossover slopes). the green line is the response of a woofer, the blue line is the response of a midrange driver, and the red line is the response of a tweeter. the crossover (electric or passive) limits the range of frequencies each driver will play. we we discuss amplifier power we also consider frequency. at 100Hz the amplifier sees only one speaker, the woofer. at 1000Hz the amplifier sees only one speaker, the midrange. and at 10000Hz the amplifier sees only one speaker, the tweeter. [IMG]http://www.orpheuscomputing.com/images/crossover-slope.gif[/IMG] this is why 70W for tweeters and 70W for woofers is just 70W per side. the reason to go active, for many people, is not for more volume but for more control over the crossover point between the mid and tweeter and, if necessary, time alignment for the tweeters (if their crossover point is low). given your tweeter mounts (i make spheres but your idea is very similar), the tweeters are aimed at you and the nearest tweeter (driver's side) will need to be attenuated in order to center your soundstage properly. [/QUOTE]
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