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Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Help With SQ Tuning
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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 8273943" data-attributes="member: 576029"><p>right now you have 110W/ch into a passive crossover that allows for 110W to the woofer below the crossover point and 110W to the tweeter above the crossover point. if you move to active with the 360/4 alone, you reduce to 70W for the tweeters and 70W for the midbass. when you go active the midbass will get less power than they have now. you'd be better served to keep the JX360/2 on the tweeters active then bridge the JX360/4 to the midbass active. while you don't need/want the full power out of the 360/2 at the tweeters, you do want minimal distortion so the gains will be very low on that amp.</p><p></p><p>the passive crossovers use resistors to limit power to the tweeters and attenuate them to account for differences in sensitivity between woofers and tweeters. note that how much attenuation is needed varies with install. pointing tweeters at you (on-axis) vs. pointing tweeters away from you (off-axis). as you tune after moving active you'll notice that you may need to attenuate the driver's tweeter separately from the passenger tweeter (depending on how they are aimed).</p><p></p><p>when tuning, i use an RTA to identify issues then try to fix with acoustical treatments, aiming, and crossover points before resorting to an EQ. the reason is that an EQ is good only for broadband adjustments (1/3rd octave or wider) and many acoustic issues are narrowband (1/24th octave or narrower). also note that many problems have a fundamental frequency and then harmonics that may or may not be mistaken for the fundamental. this is where a narrowband RTA is very useful because it allows you to identify harmonics.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 8273943, member: 576029"] right now you have 110W/ch into a passive crossover that allows for 110W to the woofer below the crossover point and 110W to the tweeter above the crossover point. if you move to active with the 360/4 alone, you reduce to 70W for the tweeters and 70W for the midbass. when you go active the midbass will get less power than they have now. you'd be better served to keep the JX360/2 on the tweeters active then bridge the JX360/4 to the midbass active. while you don't need/want the full power out of the 360/2 at the tweeters, you do want minimal distortion so the gains will be very low on that amp. the passive crossovers use resistors to limit power to the tweeters and attenuate them to account for differences in sensitivity between woofers and tweeters. note that how much attenuation is needed varies with install. pointing tweeters at you (on-axis) vs. pointing tweeters away from you (off-axis). as you tune after moving active you'll notice that you may need to attenuate the driver's tweeter separately from the passenger tweeter (depending on how they are aimed). when tuning, i use an RTA to identify issues then try to fix with acoustical treatments, aiming, and crossover points before resorting to an EQ. the reason is that an EQ is good only for broadband adjustments (1/3rd octave or wider) and many acoustic issues are narrowband (1/24th octave or narrower). also note that many problems have a fundamental frequency and then harmonics that may or may not be mistaken for the fundamental. this is where a narrowband RTA is very useful because it allows you to identify harmonics. [/QUOTE]
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