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Help with JBL speaker repair - refoam gone wrong?
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<blockquote data-quote="Jimi77" data-source="post: 8865269" data-attributes="member: 673702"><p>If you go 4 ohms, you'll probably lose ~5-6db. If you go 2 ohms expect to lose closer to 3db. Usually a model specific forum can answer if those speakers are crossed electronically or passively. I suspect they are passively crossed. Look for a capacitor on that "bridge" that the tweeter was mounted to, that would indicate (but not guarantee) they're crossed passively. Usually OEM systems that are crossed passively send a full range signal to the woofer and just cross the tweeter (just like most aftermarket 2 way coaxials). The woofer will naturally roll off the highs due to the impedance of the voice coil. </p><p></p><p>A simple test would be find a small book shelf speaker and hook it up to both those outputs and see if you get a full range signal or if the signal is cut off.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jimi77, post: 8865269, member: 673702"] If you go 4 ohms, you'll probably lose ~5-6db. If you go 2 ohms expect to lose closer to 3db. Usually a model specific forum can answer if those speakers are crossed electronically or passively. I suspect they are passively crossed. Look for a capacitor on that "bridge" that the tweeter was mounted to, that would indicate (but not guarantee) they're crossed passively. Usually OEM systems that are crossed passively send a full range signal to the woofer and just cross the tweeter (just like most aftermarket 2 way coaxials). The woofer will naturally roll off the highs due to the impedance of the voice coil. A simple test would be find a small book shelf speaker and hook it up to both those outputs and see if you get a full range signal or if the signal is cut off. [/QUOTE]
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Help with JBL speaker repair - refoam gone wrong?
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