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Help with JBL speaker repair - refoam gone wrong?
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8865196" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>So, couple of things to cover. I spoke to the "blogspot guy", Christopher at PB Audio Installation, and he clarified a couple of things that after watching his videos again, point out that, (and as he stated to me), the impedance was not a factor for their install because they were replacing the factory amplifier.</p><p></p><p>He, as did I, recommended only using 2 ohm speakers for the same reason as I. One, the filters may be inline passives (and he has no recollection of which they are but assumes, as I do, that the are passive, inline) and two, because they are 4 ohm, they will be substantially quieter so best to use 2 ohm replacements. This is due to a couple of factors. The impedance first and efficiency 2nd. OEM speakers are usually very efficient, much more so than aftermarket replacements. This because aftermarket speakers can handle a lot more power than the OEM speakers. So, we could potentially be talking about half as loud using 4 ohm speakers, that's substantial when you're not talking about a lot of power to begin with.</p><p></p><p>As for installing tweeters on the package tray next to the 6x9's, that is a very simple installation, much easier than refoaming the JBLs.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.google.com/search?q=adding+surface+mount+tweeters+to+the+rear+package+tray&rlz=1C1GEWG_enUS1029US1033&oq=adding+surface+mount+tweeters+to+the+rear+package+t&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqBwgBECEYoAEyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigATIHCAQQIRigAdIBCjE5ODQzajBqMTWoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:fd77ab33,vid:x0GDJssXsUo,st:0[/URL]</p><p></p><p>if you don't have a Dremel, you can cut those ribs with a razor blade and bend them back and forth to remove them. If, in the case of the NVX or any other comps where there isn't a screw on for the rear as there is for the tweeters in this video, you only have to cut the hole and hot glue the tweeter into place, very easy.</p><p></p><p>Here's what I've found for reasonable components:</p><p></p><p>Adaptors for the front:</p><p></p><p>Adapters to mount the tweeters should you choose components:</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B01N2J8892[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>For the front and ther rear:</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://nvx.com/collections/all-car-speakers/products/vsp69kit2f-900w-peak-300w-rms-6x9-2-ohm-v-series-2-way-component-speakers-with-25mm-silk-dome-tweeters[/URL]</p><p></p><p>You will use the adapters for the fronts, in the dash and mount the tweeters in the package tray as shown in the video. You will not need to use the supplied crossovers as we've established that the leads are already filtered.</p><p></p><p>Coaxial option (requires that you splice into or seperate the tweeter wires already on the speaker and feed the tweeter leads from the car to their respective inputs on the back of the coaxials. This also means that you will ignore the dash mounted speakers an only use it's speaker wire (lead) fro the tweeter on the coaxial driver.</p><p></p><p>Crutchfield has these the front and the rears, all you have to do is remove the leads going to the tweeter, bypass the cap and run the Camry tweeter leads to these wires, the bass wires to the bass driver.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/194433844655?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL]</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]55137[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>You can tape off the leads and ignore the cap and wire, they will no longer be needed and can just sit there.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8865196, member: 689267"] So, couple of things to cover. I spoke to the "blogspot guy", Christopher at PB Audio Installation, and he clarified a couple of things that after watching his videos again, point out that, (and as he stated to me), the impedance was not a factor for their install because they were replacing the factory amplifier. He, as did I, recommended only using 2 ohm speakers for the same reason as I. One, the filters may be inline passives (and he has no recollection of which they are but assumes, as I do, that the are passive, inline) and two, because they are 4 ohm, they will be substantially quieter so best to use 2 ohm replacements. This is due to a couple of factors. The impedance first and efficiency 2nd. OEM speakers are usually very efficient, much more so than aftermarket replacements. This because aftermarket speakers can handle a lot more power than the OEM speakers. So, we could potentially be talking about half as loud using 4 ohm speakers, that's substantial when you're not talking about a lot of power to begin with. As for installing tweeters on the package tray next to the 6x9's, that is a very simple installation, much easier than refoaming the JBLs. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.google.com/search?q=adding+surface+mount+tweeters+to+the+rear+package+tray&rlz=1C1GEWG_enUS1029US1033&oq=adding+surface+mount+tweeters+to+the+rear+package+t&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqBwgBECEYoAEyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigATIHCAQQIRigAdIBCjE5ODQzajBqMTWoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:fd77ab33,vid:x0GDJssXsUo,st:0[/URL] if you don't have a Dremel, you can cut those ribs with a razor blade and bend them back and forth to remove them. If, in the case of the NVX or any other comps where there isn't a screw on for the rear as there is for the tweeters in this video, you only have to cut the hole and hot glue the tweeter into place, very easy. Here's what I've found for reasonable components: Adaptors for the front: Adapters to mount the tweeters should you choose components: [MEDIA=amazon]B01N2J8892[/MEDIA] For the front and ther rear: [URL unfurl="true"]https://nvx.com/collections/all-car-speakers/products/vsp69kit2f-900w-peak-300w-rms-6x9-2-ohm-v-series-2-way-component-speakers-with-25mm-silk-dome-tweeters[/URL] You will use the adapters for the fronts, in the dash and mount the tweeters in the package tray as shown in the video. You will not need to use the supplied crossovers as we've established that the leads are already filtered. Coaxial option (requires that you splice into or seperate the tweeter wires already on the speaker and feed the tweeter leads from the car to their respective inputs on the back of the coaxials. This also means that you will ignore the dash mounted speakers an only use it's speaker wire (lead) fro the tweeter on the coaxial driver. Crutchfield has these the front and the rears, all you have to do is remove the leads going to the tweeter, bypass the cap and run the Camry tweeter leads to these wires, the bass wires to the bass driver. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/194433844655?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL] [ATTACH type="full"]55137[/ATTACH] You can tape off the leads and ignore the cap and wire, they will no longer be needed and can just sit there. [/QUOTE]
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Help with JBL speaker repair - refoam gone wrong?
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