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Help with Ford Fusion aftermarket!
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8718035" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>Thats exactly what streaming to a dsp like the dayton dap 408 does. Pure aptx HD lossless stream to the high quality 24 bit dac and then goes straight to the amp. The wavetech you bought is a big waste of money. All you are summing up is a garbage heavily EQ'd signal and you are amplifiying it. With the dayton dsp bluetooth dongle, its just straight phone to dsp. All audio adjustments, active crossovers etc are done on the dayton app(download and play with it) that means a full flat strong signal without any stock head unit crap killing the SQ. Nothing will be connected to the head unit. All it needs is power, remote and ground and the dsp will be your head unit. I can vouch for the sound quality of aptx hd being on par with a CD played on the same system that even MECA sound quality judges cant tell apart in a blind test.</p><p></p><p>You sorta shot yourself in the foot by buying a dsp amp and basically a far overpriced line out convertor. Even if you dont have a direct bluetooth stream the dayton has signal summing and more advanced dsp capabilities than the JL dsp amp. You would have saved a lot of money and just gotten a non dsp amp and put more money to higher quality speakers along with acoustical treatments to the vehicle.</p><p></p><p>Also id delete the rears completely, they mess up the sound stage and hurt more often than help. Pretty sure you are running the components in active mode and getting rid of the passive crossover because passive crossovers in a car environment is like playing the lottery, either the crossover point works well with the car acoustics/resonances/reflections or more of the times you get mediocre or crap results.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8718035, member: 650438"] Thats exactly what streaming to a dsp like the dayton dap 408 does. Pure aptx HD lossless stream to the high quality 24 bit dac and then goes straight to the amp. The wavetech you bought is a big waste of money. All you are summing up is a garbage heavily EQ'd signal and you are amplifiying it. With the dayton dsp bluetooth dongle, its just straight phone to dsp. All audio adjustments, active crossovers etc are done on the dayton app(download and play with it) that means a full flat strong signal without any stock head unit crap killing the SQ. Nothing will be connected to the head unit. All it needs is power, remote and ground and the dsp will be your head unit. I can vouch for the sound quality of aptx hd being on par with a CD played on the same system that even MECA sound quality judges cant tell apart in a blind test. You sorta shot yourself in the foot by buying a dsp amp and basically a far overpriced line out convertor. Even if you dont have a direct bluetooth stream the dayton has signal summing and more advanced dsp capabilities than the JL dsp amp. You would have saved a lot of money and just gotten a non dsp amp and put more money to higher quality speakers along with acoustical treatments to the vehicle. Also id delete the rears completely, they mess up the sound stage and hurt more often than help. Pretty sure you are running the components in active mode and getting rid of the passive crossover because passive crossovers in a car environment is like playing the lottery, either the crossover point works well with the car acoustics/resonances/reflections or more of the times you get mediocre or crap results. [/QUOTE]
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