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Help me build a nice system from the ground up
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<blockquote data-quote="Hardworkingman32" data-source="post: 8750662" data-attributes="member: 683236"><p>I put the car in a shop yesterday. It got so bad that the car would not even start at all.</p><p>I'm unsure if its audio related at all anymore as you will see from the issue I describe below, but nevertheless I would like your opinion on what you think caused this. Do you believe this to be a failing alternator or a failing battery or is it due to my car being incapable of running 400w?</p><p></p><p>Timeline of symptoms:</p><p>For about a year my car has had a strange issue where I could sometimes come out put the key in the ignition and turn the key then discover no dashlights would turn on whatsoever. When this happened I would pull the key, unlock the car door, open the car door, close the door, re-lock the car. Sit with key in hand out of ignition for 1-2 mins. Re-insert key and try again. The car would then start, but some times it would take several tries, usually it only took one to two more tries, but it would eventually start after doing this. I know that it sounds strange, but this is what I experienced for over a year. I didn't know what it was, but atleast the car would start and run so I decided to just fix it later on.</p><p></p><p>Over the course of the year I noticed some very slow cranks. Othertimes it started normally. If I drove the car somewhere, went inside and came back out. The car seemed to have a rougher start than it did when it was started cold.</p><p></p><p>Last saturday I came out to my car to leave for work.</p><p>Went to turn the key and got 0 dash lights whatsoever along with no click from the starter.</p><p>My buddy jumped me off and I drove on to work. The car started fine with a jump and I drove it the usual 20 minutes to work.</p><p>Came out after work 9 hours later. I tried to start the car the next time and it was same way. No dashlights whatsoever.</p><p>Pulled the key waited 1-2 mins using the same proceedure I usually did as described above. Gave the car a second crank and it fired right up. Granted it was a very rough start, but it fired right up.</p><p></p><p>Went home for the night, parked it.</p><p>Drove to autozone saturday to pick up some car wash gear.</p><p>Drove back home. Parked it for an house.</p><p>Drove to comcast 20 miles away. This run should have charged the battery sufficiently considering I kept the RPM right at 3000 to increase the charge rate. This is only a small amount of my total tachometer, so it should not have hurt anything.</p><p>Stopped by autozone</p><p>Same thing all over again only this time the car would not start for anything. No matter what I tried it was dead as doornail no accessories power, no door dings, and no dashlights whatsoever. Even using the normal method it would not fire up.</p><p></p><p>Discovered the positive terminal was loose and it was leaking fluid from that terminal.</p><p>Removed and replaced the sideposts with brand new ones. cleaned the positive and negative battery cable eyes with a brush, sprayed them.Then reinserted them. Car fired up immediately. Autozone showed me how that place that last installed my old battery stripped both bolts by overcranking them. They also tested my battery inside which showed as good, but the battery was leaking from the positive terminal. They said this could cause the battery to arc when the positive cable was not secure. Could this cause a voltage drain?</p><p></p><p>Drove the car home 20 mins while keeping the rpm at 3000 to make the charge speed up once again. So right now thats 40 mins of medium range rpm to charge the cars battery as fast as possible.</p><p>Parked the car.</p><p>Came out the next morning for work (11 hours later) and it was dead as a doornail again.</p><p></p><p>I also noticed that for the past week ever since I started experiencing this the fuel digital readout would start resetting itself to first say low, 10, 20, 30, 40 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, and so on until it slowly climbed up to 270 miles for a full tank. Does the sound like a unstable battery issue. It reset the digital fuel readout all over again every single time the car was started. It never did this before EVER.</p><p></p><p>The shop that serviced my car told me that the alternator and battery was bad. It needed to be replaced asap. Apparently a surge had happened causing both to suffer as the other one was dying, all at the same time by the battery leaking and the positive terminal being loose. Is it strange for both components to need to be replaced at the same time? Could a faulty alternator kill a brand new battery in under a year? What do you think would cause the strange key starting issue I described above. I've been experiencing it for about a year.</p><p></p><p>Do you think this could be the cause of my electrical system struggling to run a small 400w system even on a 110 amp alternator?</p><p></p><p>Is it strange to go thru 3 batteries and 2 alternators in eight years? All for having a kenwood 9106d amp plugged up with 400w?</p><p>I was told today that my subwoofer is only meant to run at 1 ohms or 8 ohms, but my kenwood is made for 2 ohms or 4 ohms with some stability to 8 ohms. My 4 ohm dvc rockford p3sd4-12 is wired in series so its doing 8 ohms.</p><p></p><p>Is there any reason to change my whole setup due to this issue described above or do you think it was alternator/battery related that was causing it? Would a more efficient amp help the system to be more stable overall? The current consumption of kenwood 9106d is 65 amps. It has (3) 40 Amp Fuses installed on it. Will this type of current requirement cause issues with a 110 amp alternator?</p><p></p><p>My last question is about ohms</p><p>If 2 ohms on this amp is capable of 1000w rms and 4 ohms is capable of 500w rms. How much is 8 ohms outputting to my sub? Since they wired it in series. </p><p></p><p>Thank you again for all of your help.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hardworkingman32, post: 8750662, member: 683236"] I put the car in a shop yesterday. It got so bad that the car would not even start at all. I'm unsure if its audio related at all anymore as you will see from the issue I describe below, but nevertheless I would like your opinion on what you think caused this. Do you believe this to be a failing alternator or a failing battery or is it due to my car being incapable of running 400w? Timeline of symptoms: For about a year my car has had a strange issue where I could sometimes come out put the key in the ignition and turn the key then discover no dashlights would turn on whatsoever. When this happened I would pull the key, unlock the car door, open the car door, close the door, re-lock the car. Sit with key in hand out of ignition for 1-2 mins. Re-insert key and try again. The car would then start, but some times it would take several tries, usually it only took one to two more tries, but it would eventually start after doing this. I know that it sounds strange, but this is what I experienced for over a year. I didn't know what it was, but atleast the car would start and run so I decided to just fix it later on. Over the course of the year I noticed some very slow cranks. Othertimes it started normally. If I drove the car somewhere, went inside and came back out. The car seemed to have a rougher start than it did when it was started cold. Last saturday I came out to my car to leave for work. Went to turn the key and got 0 dash lights whatsoever along with no click from the starter. My buddy jumped me off and I drove on to work. The car started fine with a jump and I drove it the usual 20 minutes to work. Came out after work 9 hours later. I tried to start the car the next time and it was same way. No dashlights whatsoever. Pulled the key waited 1-2 mins using the same proceedure I usually did as described above. Gave the car a second crank and it fired right up. Granted it was a very rough start, but it fired right up. Went home for the night, parked it. Drove to autozone saturday to pick up some car wash gear. Drove back home. Parked it for an house. Drove to comcast 20 miles away. This run should have charged the battery sufficiently considering I kept the RPM right at 3000 to increase the charge rate. This is only a small amount of my total tachometer, so it should not have hurt anything. Stopped by autozone Same thing all over again only this time the car would not start for anything. No matter what I tried it was dead as doornail no accessories power, no door dings, and no dashlights whatsoever. Even using the normal method it would not fire up. Discovered the positive terminal was loose and it was leaking fluid from that terminal. Removed and replaced the sideposts with brand new ones. cleaned the positive and negative battery cable eyes with a brush, sprayed them.Then reinserted them. Car fired up immediately. Autozone showed me how that place that last installed my old battery stripped both bolts by overcranking them. They also tested my battery inside which showed as good, but the battery was leaking from the positive terminal. They said this could cause the battery to arc when the positive cable was not secure. Could this cause a voltage drain? Drove the car home 20 mins while keeping the rpm at 3000 to make the charge speed up once again. So right now thats 40 mins of medium range rpm to charge the cars battery as fast as possible. Parked the car. Came out the next morning for work (11 hours later) and it was dead as a doornail again. I also noticed that for the past week ever since I started experiencing this the fuel digital readout would start resetting itself to first say low, 10, 20, 30, 40 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, and so on until it slowly climbed up to 270 miles for a full tank. Does the sound like a unstable battery issue. It reset the digital fuel readout all over again every single time the car was started. It never did this before EVER. The shop that serviced my car told me that the alternator and battery was bad. It needed to be replaced asap. Apparently a surge had happened causing both to suffer as the other one was dying, all at the same time by the battery leaking and the positive terminal being loose. Is it strange for both components to need to be replaced at the same time? Could a faulty alternator kill a brand new battery in under a year? What do you think would cause the strange key starting issue I described above. I've been experiencing it for about a year. Do you think this could be the cause of my electrical system struggling to run a small 400w system even on a 110 amp alternator? Is it strange to go thru 3 batteries and 2 alternators in eight years? All for having a kenwood 9106d amp plugged up with 400w? I was told today that my subwoofer is only meant to run at 1 ohms or 8 ohms, but my kenwood is made for 2 ohms or 4 ohms with some stability to 8 ohms. My 4 ohm dvc rockford p3sd4-12 is wired in series so its doing 8 ohms. Is there any reason to change my whole setup due to this issue described above or do you think it was alternator/battery related that was causing it? Would a more efficient amp help the system to be more stable overall? The current consumption of kenwood 9106d is 65 amps. It has (3) 40 Amp Fuses installed on it. Will this type of current requirement cause issues with a 110 amp alternator? My last question is about ohms If 2 ohms on this amp is capable of 1000w rms and 4 ohms is capable of 500w rms. How much is 8 ohms outputting to my sub? Since they wired it in series. Thank you again for all of your help. [/QUOTE]
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