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Help a newbie with a vintage car and a completely hidden system....
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<blockquote data-quote="bigblank69" data-source="post: 8619756" data-attributes="member: 571469"><p>Honestly I don't think you'll like the results... I have Dyno'd that polk amp, and your Sub is getting more power than you think (My Dyno showed 500W Rms at 4 ohms bridged). You will be going from 400-500W down to 300W total (I got 150W at 4 per channel) So you will go from powering 1 sub perfectly to underpowing 2 subs. I KNOW you don't want to hear this... BUT! I would suggest you pick up a Polk PAD2000.2. You can get one as a Amazon Warehouse Deal for $88. (Hell it's probably the one I returned during the summer when I changed my mind on my set up) and that can run your fronts, and you can use the PA4000 on the subs bridging the channels for the W3s. It's also not much bigger than a external CD Drive so you can mount it anywhere and not worry about taking more of the limited space in your ride. That is your BEST bet with what you want to do.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bigblank69, post: 8619756, member: 571469"] Honestly I don't think you'll like the results... I have Dyno'd that polk amp, and your Sub is getting more power than you think (My Dyno showed 500W Rms at 4 ohms bridged). You will be going from 400-500W down to 300W total (I got 150W at 4 per channel) So you will go from powering 1 sub perfectly to underpowing 2 subs. I KNOW you don't want to hear this... BUT! I would suggest you pick up a Polk PAD2000.2. You can get one as a Amazon Warehouse Deal for $88. (Hell it's probably the one I returned during the summer when I changed my mind on my set up) and that can run your fronts, and you can use the PA4000 on the subs bridging the channels for the W3s. It's also not much bigger than a external CD Drive so you can mount it anywhere and not worry about taking more of the limited space in your ride. That is your BEST bet with what you want to do. [/QUOTE]
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Help a newbie with a vintage car and a completely hidden system....
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