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Car Audio Equipment
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Head unit and Speaker selection
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<blockquote data-quote="Prowler573" data-source="post: 3162119" data-attributes="member: 561023"><p>//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wave.gif.002382ce7d7c19757ab945cc69819de1.gif</p><p></p><p>Welcome to the forum. Hopefully your time here will be well-spent.</p><p></p><p>First let's cover a couple of basics:</p><p></p><p>Wattage ratings, whether those ratings are related to the output capability of an amp or the input capabilities of a speaker/subwoofer, are generally given in two sets of values ~ RMS and either Peak or Max wattage.</p><p></p><p>When you encounter wattage figures listed as Peak or Max you can take these figures and completely ignore them altogether. Sadly they are basically useless numbers good for nothing more than marketing purposes.</p><p></p><p>What this leaves is the RMS wattage ratings which is a much more important number. It is the statistic that is indicative of *whatever product's* capabilities in real-world, day2day use.</p><p></p><p>When considering aftermarket speakers - whether they be coaxial speakers or a component set - can certainly work if only being powered from a headunit but you won't be able to extract all the performance they are capable of without using an outboard amplifier of some kind. Headunits simply do not offer sufficient output to get all of the performance possible from even mediocre aftermarket speakers.</p><p></p><p>"Ohms" is the unit of measure for electrical resistance. You aren't going to change the ohms of a headunit - pretty much every aftermarket headunit in existence is designed to operate with a speaker load resistance of no lower than 4 Ohms per output channel. Ergo - should your aftermarket speaker purchase be of the 2 Ohm variety you don't want to try powering it with the headunit. Unhappy things can and likely will result.</p><p></p><p>I've got more to say on this subject, certainly, as it's a broad one, but I need to step away from the PC for a few minutes.</p><p></p><p>I'll be back!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Prowler573, post: 3162119, member: 561023"] [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wave.gif.002382ce7d7c19757ab945cc69819de1.gif[/IMG] Welcome to the forum. Hopefully your time here will be well-spent. First let's cover a couple of basics: Wattage ratings, whether those ratings are related to the output capability of an amp or the input capabilities of a speaker/subwoofer, are generally given in two sets of values ~ RMS and either Peak or Max wattage. When you encounter wattage figures listed as Peak or Max you can take these figures and completely ignore them altogether. Sadly they are basically useless numbers good for nothing more than marketing purposes. What this leaves is the RMS wattage ratings which is a much more important number. It is the statistic that is indicative of *whatever product's* capabilities in real-world, day2day use. When considering aftermarket speakers - whether they be coaxial speakers or a component set - can certainly work if only being powered from a headunit but you won't be able to extract all the performance they are capable of without using an outboard amplifier of some kind. Headunits simply do not offer sufficient output to get all of the performance possible from even mediocre aftermarket speakers. "Ohms" is the unit of measure for electrical resistance. You aren't going to change the ohms of a headunit - pretty much every aftermarket headunit in existence is designed to operate with a speaker load resistance of no lower than 4 Ohms per output channel. Ergo - should your aftermarket speaker purchase be of the 2 Ohm variety you don't want to try powering it with the headunit. Unhappy things can and likely will result. I've got more to say on this subject, certainly, as it's a broad one, but I need to step away from the PC for a few minutes. I'll be back!! [/QUOTE]
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