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Message: <blockquote data-quote="eharri3" data-source="post: 5737355" data-attributes="member: 591579">You went big on your sub stage, middle of the road on your front stage install, and now wonder why those mids aren't keeping up with the sub. Level matching doesn't begin with tuning, it begins with component selection.I run HSK 165s off of 140 watts per side, in deadened doors (Not the caliber of job others have had done on their doors, mostly outter skin and some leftover dynamat on the inner skin) and they still do well for me in the midbass department. All bass appears to come from in front. The sub makes a huge difference though you don't realize how much unless  I turn it off or turn it way down and you'll never know where it is by listening. And this is with the crossover at about 70-75 HZ. I could probably go to 60-65 and be fine since I'm not running a ridiculous amount of power, to the point where I could live with rolling around without my sub on.What exactly are you looking for in your install? My advice:First, look at crossovers. If I want my sub bass to be the centerpiece of my system it'd be tuned to 80-90 HZ and mids would be 5-10 HZ over that. If I wanted a nice blend Id keep the sub below 70 HZ, set the mids to 65-70 HZ or so, see how that works. If it's still not enough ease up on the sub amp gains or lower its volume at the head unit.If you want to try to bring your midbass up to par rather than doing something to attenuate that sub, keep the mids and the tweets. Set the Hertz crossover aside. Incorporate a smaller mid range in some sort of on-axis position or else in the dash and angled for a good windshield reflection. Run active, look into tuning that midbass to play somewhere in the 60-250 HZ range, see how that works for you. If the mid breaks, find a tougher one and run it the same way. I think your best bet will be going active, finding a couple hundred more watts for dedicated midbass drivers, and then getting whatever midbass you use to do a convincing job between about 60 and 200-250 HZ.Also is there any crossover overlap? If the sub and mids are playing too many of the same frequencies alot of the frequencies in the 60-100 HZ range end up canceling eachother out and you end up with a muddy booming sound somewhere in the center of the car rather than a clear, tight midbass from the fronts. You can make midbass come and go just by playing with different blends and gaps in crossover points.</blockquote>

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