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Going Active, not so easy after all..
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<blockquote data-quote="bbeljefe" data-source="post: 8281290" data-attributes="member: 655960"><p>There's a lot of truth to that, as evidenced by the fact that there are a good many passive, unprocessed component sets in use that don't sound bad.</p><p></p><p>So what else is there to consider? Proper deadening/midbass installation &amp; proper tweeter location are also important. Deadener is pretty important for good sounding midbass in the doors and the midbass driver needs to be sealed at the back and the front of the door panel. The latter is SELDOM addressed by casual enthusiasts but it makes a lot of difference. Also, tweeter placement is critical.</p><p></p><p>It may sound counterintuitive but following the lead of the factory is the quickest and easiest way to build a clean sounding simple system. You'll notice that they always use some sort of bracket for the door speaker (often built into the speaker itself) that seals it off on the front and rear. Don't ignore that gasketing when installing aftermarket drivers... even if you have to fabricate a mounting baffle and a seal for the front of the driver. As for tweeter location, if there was a factory tweeter, re use that location. Manufacturers like to use the cheapest drivers possible and the only way to make them sound good is proper time alignment and axis. Ergo, they spend some extra time/money finding the correct locations for the tweets in relationship to the mids so that they don't have to spend more on the thousands of speakers they have to buy. And if possible, look at the cap on the factory tweeter and find out what the crossover point is. It won't need to be the same with aftermarket speakers that are seeing more power but, it's a good starting point.</p><p></p><p>In the end, if you aren't prepared/capable of doing that due diligence and work (and I understand completely if you aren't) then you're probably better off sticking with coaxials. Although, even a coaxial midbass driver needs to be properly installed and deadened.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bbeljefe, post: 8281290, member: 655960"] There's a lot of truth to that, as evidenced by the fact that there are a good many passive, unprocessed component sets in use that don't sound bad. So what else is there to consider? Proper deadening/midbass installation & proper tweeter location are also important. Deadener is pretty important for good sounding midbass in the doors and the midbass driver needs to be sealed at the back and the front of the door panel. The latter is SELDOM addressed by casual enthusiasts but it makes a lot of difference. Also, tweeter placement is critical. It may sound counterintuitive but following the lead of the factory is the quickest and easiest way to build a clean sounding simple system. You'll notice that they always use some sort of bracket for the door speaker (often built into the speaker itself) that seals it off on the front and rear. Don't ignore that gasketing when installing aftermarket drivers... even if you have to fabricate a mounting baffle and a seal for the front of the driver. As for tweeter location, if there was a factory tweeter, re use that location. Manufacturers like to use the cheapest drivers possible and the only way to make them sound good is proper time alignment and axis. Ergo, they spend some extra time/money finding the correct locations for the tweets in relationship to the mids so that they don't have to spend more on the thousands of speakers they have to buy. And if possible, look at the cap on the factory tweeter and find out what the crossover point is. It won't need to be the same with aftermarket speakers that are seeing more power but, it's a good starting point. In the end, if you aren't prepared/capable of doing that due diligence and work (and I understand completely if you aren't) then you're probably better off sticking with coaxials. Although, even a coaxial midbass driver needs to be properly installed and deadened. [/QUOTE]
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