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<blockquote data-quote="akillj" data-source="post: 8304805" data-attributes="member: 644272"><p>1. The 80PRS is a great headunit. It is active capable.</p><p></p><p>2. You don't need to have it on "full pass" (not that it could anyway, it's meant specifically for subwoofers. But yes as 'open' as it can be will work just fine) You could turn up the sub-sonic a bit as a failsafe in case the crossovers on the headunit somehow fail / it can protect you during initial setup.</p><p></p><p>3. I don't see why not? Run both on full pass, But if that amp has a high pass i'd turn it up a bit on the tweeters (ON THE AMP) just to protect them in case something messes up with the headunit configuration. You don't want to accidentally send them low frequencys when setting it up because this will blow them. Assuming they don't already have high-pass crossovers built into themselves.</p><p></p><p>4. Running a cap, or a 'bass blocker' is just a passive way to block certain frequencys. In this case, it would be lows. Since sending a tweeter lows = bye bye tweet. If your 4 channel amp has a high-pass setting, i'd turn this on just to save them from accidentally receiving low frequency's turning initial setup, and in case the high-pass on the headunit is somehow disabled. Just a failsafe.</p><p></p><p>5. Whatever sounds best and whatever the manufacturers recommend for each driver. Or a mix of both. For the tweets/mids, the manufacturer should recommend a safe crossover point (I havent looked them up, so this is on you) for EXAMPLE: 12db/octave @ 4000hz. This means that below 4000hz, the signal will drop off by 12 decibels per octave. This is just an example, I have no idea what your safe frequency response is for your tweeters.</p><p></p><p>6. It should sound great. The main difference between passive and active setups is how the crossover network / slope is defined. Generally in passive setups, you're stuck with one slope, and one frequency band. In active, again, in general, you can change how steep the slope is and where it drops off on each end. Only thing to worry about is not sending too low of a frequency to a given driver. Whether it be subs/mids/highs sending too low of a frequency at too high an amplitude can cause a mass amount of issues. Sending too high of a signal is usually never a problem. (You could run into distortion though. By 'never a problem' I mean that it shouldn't hurt the woofer itself in a major way)</p><p></p><p>This is an excellent read if you want to know a lot more about how to achieve the best sound quality possible and learn a lot more about audio in general. I'd highly recommend anyone reading this check this post out: <a href="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/how-articles-provided-our-members/163914-essentials-sound-quality-imho.html" target="_blank">The Essentials of Sound Quality IMHO - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum</a></p><p></p><p>It's a long read, so, yeah.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="akillj, post: 8304805, member: 644272"] 1. The 80PRS is a great headunit. It is active capable. 2. You don't need to have it on "full pass" (not that it could anyway, it's meant specifically for subwoofers. But yes as 'open' as it can be will work just fine) You could turn up the sub-sonic a bit as a failsafe in case the crossovers on the headunit somehow fail / it can protect you during initial setup. 3. I don't see why not? Run both on full pass, But if that amp has a high pass i'd turn it up a bit on the tweeters (ON THE AMP) just to protect them in case something messes up with the headunit configuration. You don't want to accidentally send them low frequencys when setting it up because this will blow them. Assuming they don't already have high-pass crossovers built into themselves. 4. Running a cap, or a 'bass blocker' is just a passive way to block certain frequencys. In this case, it would be lows. Since sending a tweeter lows = bye bye tweet. If your 4 channel amp has a high-pass setting, i'd turn this on just to save them from accidentally receiving low frequency's turning initial setup, and in case the high-pass on the headunit is somehow disabled. Just a failsafe. 5. Whatever sounds best and whatever the manufacturers recommend for each driver. Or a mix of both. For the tweets/mids, the manufacturer should recommend a safe crossover point (I havent looked them up, so this is on you) for EXAMPLE: 12db/octave @ 4000hz. This means that below 4000hz, the signal will drop off by 12 decibels per octave. This is just an example, I have no idea what your safe frequency response is for your tweeters. 6. It should sound great. The main difference between passive and active setups is how the crossover network / slope is defined. Generally in passive setups, you're stuck with one slope, and one frequency band. In active, again, in general, you can change how steep the slope is and where it drops off on each end. Only thing to worry about is not sending too low of a frequency to a given driver. Whether it be subs/mids/highs sending too low of a frequency at too high an amplitude can cause a mass amount of issues. Sending too high of a signal is usually never a problem. (You could run into distortion though. By 'never a problem' I mean that it shouldn't hurt the woofer itself in a major way) This is an excellent read if you want to know a lot more about how to achieve the best sound quality possible and learn a lot more about audio in general. I'd highly recommend anyone reading this check this post out: [URL="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/how-articles-provided-our-members/163914-essentials-sound-quality-imho.html"]The Essentials of Sound Quality IMHO - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum[/URL] It's a long read, so, yeah. [/QUOTE]
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