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Fusing for comps
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<blockquote data-quote="Exist_ential" data-source="post: 7904573" data-attributes="member: 640205"><p>you are in the same boat i am this year lol. i am using just enough power to bump me out of S1 and into S2 and i will be running 1000w less than most of my opponents, you are using just enough to bump out of S2 and into S3 but you will also be using less power than most of your opponents.</p><p></p><p>The lowest possible Street class you can run is Street 3 due to your rms ratings and you will be required to run NO MORE than 100a of fusing.</p><p></p><p>Keep in mind these fuses must be within 18" of the enclosure since you are running in a jimmy.</p><p></p><p>Also make sure your box is below window line, which technically is not the window line its actually the point of the seat back that begins to transition into the headrest, or if there are no headrest its the top of the seat back. and they will get you for being even 1/4 inch over.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Exist_ential, post: 7904573, member: 640205"] you are in the same boat i am this year lol. i am using just enough power to bump me out of S1 and into S2 and i will be running 1000w less than most of my opponents, you are using just enough to bump out of S2 and into S3 but you will also be using less power than most of your opponents. The lowest possible Street class you can run is Street 3 due to your rms ratings and you will be required to run NO MORE than 100a of fusing. Keep in mind these fuses must be within 18" of the enclosure since you are running in a jimmy. Also make sure your box is below window line, which technically is not the window line its actually the point of the seat back that begins to transition into the headrest, or if there are no headrest its the top of the seat back. and they will get you for being even 1/4 inch over. [/QUOTE]
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