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<blockquote data-quote="Gannz" data-source="post: 8417881" data-attributes="member: 667066"><p>Current setup...</p><p></p><p>06 F150 SUPERCREW with 50% coverage CDL and full coverage CCF/MLV (doors, floor, back wall, kick panels, pillars)</p><p></p><p>Pioneer AVIC-5000NEX – time alignment – high pass crossover with adjustable points and slopes</p><p></p><p>JBL GTO 1004 4 channel Amp – 100W RMS X 4 @ 4 OHM – 150W RMS X 4 @ 2 OHM - 300W RMS x 2 @ 2 OHM</p><p></p><p>JBL GTO 501EZ Sub Amp 500W RMS x 1 @ 2 OHMS</p><p></p><p>Sundown SD-3 10” 500W RMS Dual 4 OHM wired to 2 OHM in a ¾ MDF .75 Sq. Ft. box</p><p></p><p>Very happy with all of the above.</p><p></p><p>I have 4 Sets of Orion XTR6.2 6.5” 2-way components circa 2002/03. Mounted in stock, door location (tweeters above mids and off axis). Back of the woofer says 150W @ 4 ohms. Not sure if that’s RMS or peak but assuming it’s peak. Used to have them in my RV and figured I’d try them in this install. They’re not as good as I remembered them to be. LOL. Tweeters are way too bright for me.</p><p></p><p>I see most people use coaxials in the rear (or none at all) but I had the extra set of components and they’re faded very low just to provide some rear fill. I’m fine with these in the rear.</p><p></p><p>The only thing I want to change is the front components. Budget is $2-300.</p><p></p><p>First question is active or passive? If active, can my head unit and amp handle the crossovers or do I need an AudioControl 2XS? Head unit has front and rear HPF with adjustable points (50-200Hz) and slopes (12dB). Amp has front and rear HPF or LPF, 12dB/octave, 32-320Hz, and bass boost of 0-12dB for the rear.</p><p></p><p>I’m still learning but I think that will work to drive/cross the front components with all 4 channels. But, I’ll lose the rear speakers and I won’t be able to bridge the amp and get the 300W @ 2 ohm. If the crossover is done with the 2XS, can I drive the rear speakers off of the head unit and still have fader control?</p><p></p><p>If I go passive I can bridge the amp and get 300W @ 2 OHM to the fronts and drive the rears off of the head unit with full fade control?</p><p></p><p>If I go active I'm looking at the Sound Qubed Pro Audio QP MR-6.5 or the Silver Flute 6.5, 2XS crossover (if needed), and I’m still trying to figure out the tweeter. Probably the Seas H1396. The QP TH-25 Super Tweeters are way too big. That should put me at around $150 w/o the crossover or $230 with.</p><p></p><p>If passive, I’m leaning toward the ID CXS62 V.2 with the amp bridged to get 300W @ 2 OHM. Is that too much power for them?</p><p></p><p>Or, the HAT Imagine. The HAT’s are 4 OHM so they won’t be bridged and they’ll only get 100W @ 4 OHM. But, I’ll be able to drive the rears off of the amp. I’ve read that the Imagines are best used with an active setup and they’re also best off axis which is what I’ll be doing. Can I use the head unit or amp crossovers to tone down the tweeters?</p><p></p><p>Or, should I go with the HAT Imagine and a 2XS? Puts me over budget but only $80 and I’d rather just spend the little bit extra if it gets me the best SQ.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Gannz, post: 8417881, member: 667066"] Current setup... 06 F150 SUPERCREW with 50% coverage CDL and full coverage CCF/MLV (doors, floor, back wall, kick panels, pillars) Pioneer AVIC-5000NEX – time alignment – high pass crossover with adjustable points and slopes JBL GTO 1004 4 channel Amp – 100W RMS X 4 @ 4 OHM – 150W RMS X 4 @ 2 OHM - 300W RMS x 2 @ 2 OHM JBL GTO 501EZ Sub Amp 500W RMS x 1 @ 2 OHMS Sundown SD-3 10” 500W RMS Dual 4 OHM wired to 2 OHM in a ¾ MDF .75 Sq. Ft. box Very happy with all of the above. I have 4 Sets of Orion XTR6.2 6.5” 2-way components circa 2002/03. Mounted in stock, door location (tweeters above mids and off axis). Back of the woofer says 150W @ 4 ohms. Not sure if that’s RMS or peak but assuming it’s peak. Used to have them in my RV and figured I’d try them in this install. They’re not as good as I remembered them to be. LOL. Tweeters are way too bright for me. I see most people use coaxials in the rear (or none at all) but I had the extra set of components and they’re faded very low just to provide some rear fill. I’m fine with these in the rear. The only thing I want to change is the front components. Budget is $2-300. First question is active or passive? If active, can my head unit and amp handle the crossovers or do I need an AudioControl 2XS? Head unit has front and rear HPF with adjustable points (50-200Hz) and slopes (12dB). Amp has front and rear HPF or LPF, 12dB/octave, 32-320Hz, and bass boost of 0-12dB for the rear. I’m still learning but I think that will work to drive/cross the front components with all 4 channels. But, I’ll lose the rear speakers and I won’t be able to bridge the amp and get the 300W @ 2 ohm. If the crossover is done with the 2XS, can I drive the rear speakers off of the head unit and still have fader control? If I go passive I can bridge the amp and get 300W @ 2 OHM to the fronts and drive the rears off of the head unit with full fade control? If I go active I'm looking at the Sound Qubed Pro Audio QP MR-6.5 or the Silver Flute 6.5, 2XS crossover (if needed), and I’m still trying to figure out the tweeter. Probably the Seas H1396. The QP TH-25 Super Tweeters are way too big. That should put me at around $150 w/o the crossover or $230 with. If passive, I’m leaning toward the ID CXS62 V.2 with the amp bridged to get 300W @ 2 OHM. Is that too much power for them? Or, the HAT Imagine. The HAT’s are 4 OHM so they won’t be bridged and they’ll only get 100W @ 4 OHM. But, I’ll be able to drive the rears off of the amp. I’ve read that the Imagines are best used with an active setup and they’re also best off axis which is what I’ll be doing. Can I use the head unit or amp crossovers to tone down the tweeters? Or, should I go with the HAT Imagine and a 2XS? Puts me over budget but only $80 and I’d rather just spend the little bit extra if it gets me the best SQ. [/QUOTE]
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