Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
front speakers not working...wtf?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="jrwalte" data-source="post: 4657573" data-attributes="member: 584454"><p>To test to see if the wire at the amp is the wire at your door, do a continuity test from your DMM. Disconnect the wire on both ends. You'll place one prong of the DMM on the neg at your amp and then the other prong on the neg at your speaker (you may have to take a spare piece of wire and connect it to one of the prongs so the DMM can reach both ends of the wire). If the test is true, its the same wire. Try the same test on the pos of the wire and do this for both speaker wire runs. This can help you to make sure it's the same wire and they aren't cut somewhere along the line.</p><p></p><p>If all tests are true, then with the amp playing a 1KHz test tone (decently high volume, 2/3rd at least) place a DMM at the speaker connectors at the amp, take the voltage reading and then with the tone still playing place the DMM on the speaker wire at the door. If the voltage isn't the same this may indicate a wire that is too small or it is damaged and shorting out. FYI, you can disconnect the neg wire from your rear speakers so they aren't blaring in your ear while you do the test. The sub amp doesn't need to be disconnected because it doesn't play 1Khz.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jrwalte, post: 4657573, member: 584454"] To test to see if the wire at the amp is the wire at your door, do a continuity test from your DMM. Disconnect the wire on both ends. You'll place one prong of the DMM on the neg at your amp and then the other prong on the neg at your speaker (you may have to take a spare piece of wire and connect it to one of the prongs so the DMM can reach both ends of the wire). If the test is true, its the same wire. Try the same test on the pos of the wire and do this for both speaker wire runs. This can help you to make sure it's the same wire and they aren't cut somewhere along the line. If all tests are true, then with the amp playing a 1KHz test tone (decently high volume, 2/3rd at least) place a DMM at the speaker connectors at the amp, take the voltage reading and then with the tone still playing place the DMM on the speaker wire at the door. If the voltage isn't the same this may indicate a wire that is too small or it is damaged and shorting out. FYI, you can disconnect the neg wire from your rear speakers so they aren't blaring in your ear while you do the test. The sub amp doesn't need to be disconnected because it doesn't play 1Khz. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
front speakers not working...wtf?
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list