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General Car Audio
Fried Alternator ???
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<blockquote data-quote="adulbrich" data-source="post: 8571056" data-attributes="member: 661255"><p>I don't know what shorted internally without looking at it torn apart.</p><p></p><p>1. It would have shorted right way if it was not rebuilt properly and had something internally shorted to begin with. Driving for 15 minutes tells me that components in the alternator had time to heat up. It simply wan't able to dissipate the heat as quickly as it built up. My guess is a solder joint melted and shorted to the case. My US 390 amp alternator has silver solder instead of regular lead solder to give it a bit more amperage capacity before failure. 10 minutes of charge was basically nothing. If a battery came into our shop at 9.5v when I worked there, we would quick hit it with a 250 amp boost. If it was taking a charge, we would put it on a 10-15 amp slow charge overnight or even longer. 10 minutes was not a significant amount of time for an alternator to charge a battery, hence why the car immediately died when the alternator shorted. The battery didn't take enough charge to support the vehicle.</p><p></p><p>2. Because the alt "sensed" such a low voltage, it kept compensating and trying to maintain a higher voltage charge.</p><p></p><p>3. Knowing this about your system, I doubt it was significant in the failure of your alternator. The very dead battery is the culprit.</p><p></p><p>4. Stock alternators are not meant to charge a dead battery. Their sole purpose is to maintain the starting battery's charge and run stock electrical accessories. Car audio alternators are a bit different, and most legitimate manufacturers use higher quality parts meant to be loaded down more and withstand the abuse. A stock alternator does not like to put out its max amperage for very long. That's why when people put a system in their car that is too big for their alternator to keep up with, it eventually fails. The difference being that they have a healthy battery to buffer the abuse.</p><p></p><p>5. The "130 amp" alternator most likely put out a bit less than 130 amps. Also, the fuse was designed to pass 120 amps. An extra 10 amps wouldn't instantly blow it. A fuse blows when the amperage flowing through it heats up the metal enough to break the circuit. Without further information, I don't know if it was a "slow blow" or "quick blow" fuse. If the alt was putting out 120-125 amps max, that wouldn't necessarily pop the fuse.</p><p></p><p>Yes, if something else was shorting, your voltage would continue to go down.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="adulbrich, post: 8571056, member: 661255"] I don't know what shorted internally without looking at it torn apart. 1. It would have shorted right way if it was not rebuilt properly and had something internally shorted to begin with. Driving for 15 minutes tells me that components in the alternator had time to heat up. It simply wan't able to dissipate the heat as quickly as it built up. My guess is a solder joint melted and shorted to the case. My US 390 amp alternator has silver solder instead of regular lead solder to give it a bit more amperage capacity before failure. 10 minutes of charge was basically nothing. If a battery came into our shop at 9.5v when I worked there, we would quick hit it with a 250 amp boost. If it was taking a charge, we would put it on a 10-15 amp slow charge overnight or even longer. 10 minutes was not a significant amount of time for an alternator to charge a battery, hence why the car immediately died when the alternator shorted. The battery didn't take enough charge to support the vehicle. 2. Because the alt "sensed" such a low voltage, it kept compensating and trying to maintain a higher voltage charge. 3. Knowing this about your system, I doubt it was significant in the failure of your alternator. The very dead battery is the culprit. 4. Stock alternators are not meant to charge a dead battery. Their sole purpose is to maintain the starting battery's charge and run stock electrical accessories. Car audio alternators are a bit different, and most legitimate manufacturers use higher quality parts meant to be loaded down more and withstand the abuse. A stock alternator does not like to put out its max amperage for very long. That's why when people put a system in their car that is too big for their alternator to keep up with, it eventually fails. The difference being that they have a healthy battery to buffer the abuse. 5. The "130 amp" alternator most likely put out a bit less than 130 amps. Also, the fuse was designed to pass 120 amps. An extra 10 amps wouldn't instantly blow it. A fuse blows when the amperage flowing through it heats up the metal enough to break the circuit. Without further information, I don't know if it was a "slow blow" or "quick blow" fuse. If the alt was putting out 120-125 amps max, that wouldn't necessarily pop the fuse. Yes, if something else was shorting, your voltage would continue to go down. [/QUOTE]
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Fried Alternator ???
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