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Focal PS165V1 Active Crossover Questions
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<blockquote data-quote="imsickofweed" data-source="post: 8641398" data-attributes="member: 668971"><p>Equipment:</p><p></p><p>Alpine PDX-V9 4x100W 500W mono sub channel</p><p></p><p>Pioneer FH-P8000BT HU</p><p></p><p>Focal PS165V1 component set running active with amp crossovers</p><p></p><p>2002 Ford Escape with factory tweeter door sail panels, doors are heavily treated with dynamat and 1/2” dynaliner, 1/2” abs speaker adapters, MLV velcroed at the top and draped down. Rear door speakers are removed and those doors will be treated lightly with dynamat, dynaliner, and MLV</p><p></p><p>Goals:</p><p></p><p>1. Good crossover starting point for high pass 1.75” tweeters, and band pass 6.5” mids.</p><p></p><p>2. Determine power to send to tweeters.</p><p></p><p>Im looking for a good place to start with the crossover settings and wattage on the focals. Ive read that the included crossovers are set at 4, 4.5, and 5kHz and set is rated for 80wrms. Tweeters will be on ch1/2 and mids on ch3/4. Tweeters are in factory location aimed off access, but can be moved around depending on how it sounds to me. I assume the power ratings are for use with the crossovers and they will determine how much power gets sent to the tweeters. Ive heard that the tweeters can be pretty bright and most people tone them down with the included attenuation switches on the crossovers to -6dB. Is this something I should do with the HU EQ or the gain on the amp? I plan on doing 80wrms to the mids set with a DMM, later on I might have access to an O-scope to double check distortion, but I figure 80wrms is way under the rated 100wrms of the amp. Should I also run the full 80wrms to the tweeters?</p><p></p><p>The sub is not yet determined, Im trying to do more of a stealth setup and I dont want a giant ported box in the rear hatch area. Anything that can handle the full 500wrms power is too big to fit under the seat so Im thinking of front passenger footwell custom box. The original plan was a small 6.75” sub in the factory box, but thats not cutting it for the amount of bass I want. It will probably be a 10” or 12”, but the 13.5” shallow JL looks intersting for my situation. Im more focused on getting a good starting point for the focals, this is just an FYI.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="imsickofweed, post: 8641398, member: 668971"] Equipment: Alpine PDX-V9 4x100W 500W mono sub channel Pioneer FH-P8000BT HU Focal PS165V1 component set running active with amp crossovers 2002 Ford Escape with factory tweeter door sail panels, doors are heavily treated with dynamat and 1/2” dynaliner, 1/2” abs speaker adapters, MLV velcroed at the top and draped down. Rear door speakers are removed and those doors will be treated lightly with dynamat, dynaliner, and MLV Goals: 1. Good crossover starting point for high pass 1.75” tweeters, and band pass 6.5” mids. 2. Determine power to send to tweeters. Im looking for a good place to start with the crossover settings and wattage on the focals. Ive read that the included crossovers are set at 4, 4.5, and 5kHz and set is rated for 80wrms. Tweeters will be on ch1/2 and mids on ch3/4. Tweeters are in factory location aimed off access, but can be moved around depending on how it sounds to me. I assume the power ratings are for use with the crossovers and they will determine how much power gets sent to the tweeters. Ive heard that the tweeters can be pretty bright and most people tone them down with the included attenuation switches on the crossovers to -6dB. Is this something I should do with the HU EQ or the gain on the amp? I plan on doing 80wrms to the mids set with a DMM, later on I might have access to an O-scope to double check distortion, but I figure 80wrms is way under the rated 100wrms of the amp. Should I also run the full 80wrms to the tweeters? The sub is not yet determined, Im trying to do more of a stealth setup and I dont want a giant ported box in the rear hatch area. Anything that can handle the full 500wrms power is too big to fit under the seat so Im thinking of front passenger footwell custom box. The original plan was a small 6.75” sub in the factory box, but thats not cutting it for the amount of bass I want. It will probably be a 10” or 12”, but the 13.5” shallow JL looks intersting for my situation. Im more focused on getting a good starting point for the focals, this is just an FYI. [/QUOTE]
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