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Enclosure Design & Construction
First time builder, triple 10 alpine box
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8726532" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>Actually class D amps are most efficient at maximum unclipped voltage (though usually not at minimum impedance). Really though, for practical purposes, test bench type stuff has no bearing on just hooking up in your car for playing music and the 3 shallow Alpine subs on a 1000W rated amp in a sealed box should be fine for what you're doing. </p><p></p><p>I'm not too familiar with that line of Alpine woofer so do confirm that Alpine recommends sealed alignment for those. I suspect they will because they're meant to save space, and the shallow stuff is always very limited mechanically.</p><p></p><p>You can use separate chambers or share airspace either should do the same thing. The benefit of separate chambers is that if one sub breaks the rest of them won't get hurt as easily also the dividers should help as bracing on your long sides. The key thing you're trying to achieve is to completely seal the rear wave from the front wave off the cone so the box must be 100% airtight and rigid enough not to flex. You would be surprised at how little by way of cone area and power it takes to flex 3/4" MDF so if you do not do divided chambers do add some bracing as needed to keep the long sides supported. </p><p></p><p>Lastly be sure to dry fit the pieces into your truck before you start gluing to confirm it'll fit where you think it's going to fit and also try to predict if you'll have any troubles fitting it into place once assembled. I'm sure your carpenter in-law will have you covered as far as how to properly glue and screw or glue and clamp. IF you use silicone based sealant/caulking be sure it is completely dry/cured before mounting subs. The fumes from those types of adhesives can damage some foam surrounds.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8726532, member: 614752"] Actually class D amps are most efficient at maximum unclipped voltage (though usually not at minimum impedance). Really though, for practical purposes, test bench type stuff has no bearing on just hooking up in your car for playing music and the 3 shallow Alpine subs on a 1000W rated amp in a sealed box should be fine for what you're doing. I'm not too familiar with that line of Alpine woofer so do confirm that Alpine recommends sealed alignment for those. I suspect they will because they're meant to save space, and the shallow stuff is always very limited mechanically. You can use separate chambers or share airspace either should do the same thing. The benefit of separate chambers is that if one sub breaks the rest of them won't get hurt as easily also the dividers should help as bracing on your long sides. The key thing you're trying to achieve is to completely seal the rear wave from the front wave off the cone so the box must be 100% airtight and rigid enough not to flex. You would be surprised at how little by way of cone area and power it takes to flex 3/4" MDF so if you do not do divided chambers do add some bracing as needed to keep the long sides supported. Lastly be sure to dry fit the pieces into your truck before you start gluing to confirm it'll fit where you think it's going to fit and also try to predict if you'll have any troubles fitting it into place once assembled. I'm sure your carpenter in-law will have you covered as far as how to properly glue and screw or glue and clamp. IF you use silicone based sealant/caulking be sure it is completely dry/cured before mounting subs. The fumes from those types of adhesives can damage some foam surrounds. [/QUOTE]
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First time builder, triple 10 alpine box
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