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<blockquote data-quote="DejaWiz" data-source="post: 4381139" data-attributes="member: 569941"><p>Yes, there is generally a lot of time spent and research done by reputable companies in designing a passive crossover for a set of components. However, if you know what you are doing and are armed with a few tidbits of knowledge such as the tweeter's Fs, then they'll be absolutely fine in an active crossover setup.</p><p></p><p>Sub: LP 63-80Hz, -18 to -24 dB/Oct.</p><p></p><p>Mids: HP 63-80 Hz, LP 2800-3000 Hz, -12 to -24 dB/Oct.</p><p></p><p>Tweeters: HP 3000 Hz, -12 to -24 dB/Oct.</p><p></p><p>Keep your amp gains down initially since the passive isn't there to dissipate some of that power...especially for the tweeters.</p><p></p><p>Play around with the crossover points and sloped so you can determine what sounds best for you in your vehicle.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DejaWiz, post: 4381139, member: 569941"] Yes, there is generally a lot of time spent and research done by reputable companies in designing a passive crossover for a set of components. However, if you know what you are doing and are armed with a few tidbits of knowledge such as the tweeter's Fs, then they'll be absolutely fine in an active crossover setup. Sub: LP 63-80Hz, -18 to -24 dB/Oct. Mids: HP 63-80 Hz, LP 2800-3000 Hz, -12 to -24 dB/Oct. Tweeters: HP 3000 Hz, -12 to -24 dB/Oct. Keep your amp gains down initially since the passive isn't there to dissipate some of that power...especially for the tweeters. Play around with the crossover points and sloped so you can determine what sounds best for you in your vehicle. [/QUOTE]
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