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<blockquote data-quote="HardofWhoring" data-source="post: 8836199" data-attributes="member: 674149"><p>The bigger the gauge number, the smaller the wire. 8awg would be smaller than 7awg. Yeah, go with 4awg. 7awg sounds like it must be for an amp that's main market is outside of the U.S. I wouldn't even spend two minutes trying to find 7awg.</p><p></p><p>8awg would be fine if its a short run, but in the bigger picture of it. If 4awg works for your total amperage and length, you can run 4awg off the battery, then split it and run 4awg to each amp, as long as it is still big enough for the total amperage. What you need to know is what size connections all the equipment is designed for; the connectors on the amp, and the connectors on your distribution BLOCKS (fused one for power, non fused one for ground). You also then only need to buy one long wire, and you cut off what you need, instead of buying extra and wasting a little, (the cost of the larger wire kind of evens itself out if you can keep a usable length, as opposed to having a foot or two extra that's not good for anything).</p><p></p><p>Figure out what size connections your amp can take, then find your distribution blocks that work with that size, then buy your wire.</p><p></p><p>The LOC needs a dedicated power wire. You can add it to the distribution block. You might need a block with an extra fuse for it, or maybe you can attach it in a way that the power wire has a connection, depends on the style.</p><p></p><p>Your other option, and what I would do, is wire in a relay. Your remote wire / blue with white stripe wire is a very small circuit on your head unit. You can find the millivolt specs on some. They seem to usually be capable of powering about 300-500mv. On your amp, that input is just a switch, and can be anywhere from 100-400mv. SOME AMPS can burn out that switch and ruin your head unit with two amps, and some head units can power 3 amps, maybe more with no problem. If you can't find your specs, you can guarantee it won't be a problem if you run a simple 30 amp 4 pin/5pin relay. The relay will be switched on by that wire, and you run a dedicated power wire to your battery or if you upsize it, and plan for it, you can wire it to that main power wire/fused distribution block (, and ground to your ground block). <strong> That will give you up to 30 amps of switched power from off the fused distribution block (between your two blocks). </strong> You then wire all your amplifier's remote turn on wires to that relay (directly or through a busbar, or just stack rings/pins). If you do that you would then be able to wire the LOC to that as well. It would be on switched power just like the amps so it won't drain or draw from somewhere it shouldn't.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="HardofWhoring, post: 8836199, member: 674149"] The bigger the gauge number, the smaller the wire. 8awg would be smaller than 7awg. Yeah, go with 4awg. 7awg sounds like it must be for an amp that's main market is outside of the U.S. I wouldn't even spend two minutes trying to find 7awg. 8awg would be fine if its a short run, but in the bigger picture of it. If 4awg works for your total amperage and length, you can run 4awg off the battery, then split it and run 4awg to each amp, as long as it is still big enough for the total amperage. What you need to know is what size connections all the equipment is designed for; the connectors on the amp, and the connectors on your distribution BLOCKS (fused one for power, non fused one for ground). You also then only need to buy one long wire, and you cut off what you need, instead of buying extra and wasting a little, (the cost of the larger wire kind of evens itself out if you can keep a usable length, as opposed to having a foot or two extra that's not good for anything). Figure out what size connections your amp can take, then find your distribution blocks that work with that size, then buy your wire. The LOC needs a dedicated power wire. You can add it to the distribution block. You might need a block with an extra fuse for it, or maybe you can attach it in a way that the power wire has a connection, depends on the style. Your other option, and what I would do, is wire in a relay. Your remote wire / blue with white stripe wire is a very small circuit on your head unit. You can find the millivolt specs on some. They seem to usually be capable of powering about 300-500mv. On your amp, that input is just a switch, and can be anywhere from 100-400mv. SOME AMPS can burn out that switch and ruin your head unit with two amps, and some head units can power 3 amps, maybe more with no problem. If you can't find your specs, you can guarantee it won't be a problem if you run a simple 30 amp 4 pin/5pin relay. The relay will be switched on by that wire, and you run a dedicated power wire to your battery or if you upsize it, and plan for it, you can wire it to that main power wire/fused distribution block (, and ground to your ground block). [B] That will give you up to 30 amps of switched power from off the fused distribution block (between your two blocks). [/B] You then wire all your amplifier's remote turn on wires to that relay (directly or through a busbar, or just stack rings/pins). If you do that you would then be able to wire the LOC to that as well. It would be on switched power just like the amps so it won't drain or draw from somewhere it shouldn't. [/QUOTE]
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