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<blockquote data-quote="HardofWhoring" data-source="post: 8836115" data-attributes="member: 674149"><p>Yeah, you can use a 1 ch amp. 1ch just means you have to wire it in mono, and can't wire it in stereo. That doesn't matter with subs. The one you listed is a 1 ohm final impedance. You just need a 1ch, amp that can do about;</p><p> 800-1000w RMS 1ch @1ohm.</p><p></p><p>Basically when you do this, you are starting at the end, and figuring it out, working your way up to the battery AFTER you have your amps figured out, (and roughly know where they wil be mounted).</p><p></p><p>For fuse sizes, you need to know or figure out the sizes for your amps. </p><p>Your wiring going off the distribution block will need to be fused at least the same, but better if just slightly higher. The size of the wire will need to be capable of handing at least 10-15% more than what those fuses are rated for. </p><p>The main wire off the battery to the distribution block needs to be fused at least as much all combined fuses off the distribution block, and the fuse as close to the battery terminal as possible. The wire size needs to be able to handle 10-15% more than the fuse size. </p><p>There are a lot of AWG wire size charts, and they vary slightly. here is the one off crutchfield.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.pinimg.com/474x/ad/90/aa/ad90aa72913b222a5a166ef89ba491e1--charts-wire.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>If you have 2 amps, one is fused at 40 amps, and one fused at 120 amps, then</p><p>For the 40 amp, amplifier, wire it with either 10 or 8awg (8 because that is probably what you will find), and fuse that wire at 50 amps. </p><p>For the 120 amp, amplifier, a short run could be 8awg, but I would 100% go 4awg. Then I would fuse that wire 125-150amps. (You can always go bigger with wire, it just costs cents more per foot, and is a little bigger physically to run it). The wiring can be as oversized as you want, but the fuses need to be sized for what they are doing. They need to be less than what the wire is capable of, but more than what you need downstream.</p><p></p><p>The main wire would then need to handle at least 160 amps. I would do 1/0, and fuse it for 200amps at the battery. The fuses at the battery and the distribution block are for the wire. As close to the battery as possible, and on the terminal is best. If that wire burns through you have some length between the terminal and fuse that could be a large, exposed power wire that could burn your vehicle to the ground. </p><p></p><p></p><p>If you can find a seller that offers all the blocks that you like, then WOW. I have a box of about 15 of em, and some off the top of my head are:</p><p>DS18</p><p>Knuconceptz</p><p>tspec</p><p>Metra</p><p>Skyhighcar audio</p><p>Jl Audio</p><p>Stinger</p><p>A couple chinese / Amazon ones I'm not proud of. </p><p></p><p>The DS18, tspec & Knuconceptz are some of my favorite designs, I would suggest at least checking those two out. (Sealed better, adjustability, and quality).</p><p></p><p>The fused battery terminals are where I would start, those are just going to be the fewest options. The fused distribution block will probably need a reducer and some times they just aren't designed for the size of wiring you are using in and out. It's two blocks, and with this example you would need 3 sizes of wire, which not everyone sells. There are places where you can get all of that, but I wouldn't worry about getting it all from one place that much. You need a wire from each amp, a distribution block, a main power wire, and a fuse at or near the battery.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="HardofWhoring, post: 8836115, member: 674149"] Yeah, you can use a 1 ch amp. 1ch just means you have to wire it in mono, and can't wire it in stereo. That doesn't matter with subs. The one you listed is a 1 ohm final impedance. You just need a 1ch, amp that can do about; 800-1000w RMS 1ch @1ohm. Basically when you do this, you are starting at the end, and figuring it out, working your way up to the battery AFTER you have your amps figured out, (and roughly know where they wil be mounted). For fuse sizes, you need to know or figure out the sizes for your amps. Your wiring going off the distribution block will need to be fused at least the same, but better if just slightly higher. The size of the wire will need to be capable of handing at least 10-15% more than what those fuses are rated for. The main wire off the battery to the distribution block needs to be fused at least as much all combined fuses off the distribution block, and the fuse as close to the battery terminal as possible. The wire size needs to be able to handle 10-15% more than the fuse size. There are a lot of AWG wire size charts, and they vary slightly. here is the one off crutchfield. [IMG]https://i.pinimg.com/474x/ad/90/aa/ad90aa72913b222a5a166ef89ba491e1--charts-wire.jpg[/IMG] If you have 2 amps, one is fused at 40 amps, and one fused at 120 amps, then For the 40 amp, amplifier, wire it with either 10 or 8awg (8 because that is probably what you will find), and fuse that wire at 50 amps. For the 120 amp, amplifier, a short run could be 8awg, but I would 100% go 4awg. Then I would fuse that wire 125-150amps. (You can always go bigger with wire, it just costs cents more per foot, and is a little bigger physically to run it). The wiring can be as oversized as you want, but the fuses need to be sized for what they are doing. They need to be less than what the wire is capable of, but more than what you need downstream. The main wire would then need to handle at least 160 amps. I would do 1/0, and fuse it for 200amps at the battery. The fuses at the battery and the distribution block are for the wire. As close to the battery as possible, and on the terminal is best. If that wire burns through you have some length between the terminal and fuse that could be a large, exposed power wire that could burn your vehicle to the ground. If you can find a seller that offers all the blocks that you like, then WOW. I have a box of about 15 of em, and some off the top of my head are: DS18 Knuconceptz tspec Metra Skyhighcar audio Jl Audio Stinger A couple chinese / Amazon ones I'm not proud of. The DS18, tspec & Knuconceptz are some of my favorite designs, I would suggest at least checking those two out. (Sealed better, adjustability, and quality). The fused battery terminals are where I would start, those are just going to be the fewest options. The fused distribution block will probably need a reducer and some times they just aren't designed for the size of wiring you are using in and out. It's two blocks, and with this example you would need 3 sizes of wire, which not everyone sells. There are places where you can get all of that, but I wouldn't worry about getting it all from one place that much. You need a wire from each amp, a distribution block, a main power wire, and a fuse at or near the battery. [/QUOTE]
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