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Message: <blockquote data-quote="brian84corvette" data-source="post: 8305286" data-attributes="member: 586635">is a yellow top optima battery concidered a agm.....   welllllll   kinda but no at the same time...  its a spiral cell battery...  and ive killed my share of them.   their internal resistance is not quite as low as it needs to be for car audio - even tho they are marketed to be car audio capable batterys - they are still pretty iffy.in my experience - they do not do well with any tiny but constant draw in the car...   mine would always be at 80% or less charge because of that and it was about one of the worst batterys ive had.car audio type batterys are branded big names = over priced but good quality like xs power - and kenetik - stinger - odyssey - north star  ext....but there are also basicly re labeled batterys that are similar to those in no name brands that are also fairly good at car audio use. ( my favorite = deka intimidator )my batterys are no name - china made and cost me $170 per battery no core charge delivered to my work for a 100 amp hour agm battery (63 lb weight)idealy you would get all of your batterys you plan to run at the same time - from the same manufacture date - and from the get go they are all "matching" meaning that one hasnt been half used up yet directly linked to a newer one thats had no abuse....   you want them all to be as the same as possible...but most of us here are trying to ball on a budget - so it is ok to get one or 2 and add one more as funds allow.   the battery under hood takes the most abuse - as it has to deal with the elements and heat under there...    newer batterys should go under hood - and older ones rotated to the back bank....as for will you see a diffrence replacing the single yellow top under hood with a car audio type agm battery ?   yesit wont be a huge diffrence replacing just with 1 battery - but if you could swing 2 agm batterys of 100 amp hour ish ratings then you will definately see improvment much more than your current setup using the 1 yellow top.battery isolator is a great idea.    pain in the *** to install properly ( not being a bottle neck in electrical flow to the amps )and about the 1800w to 2200w increase of only 400w  will probably not be noticable....i had a origonal gen 1 saz1500 wired at .5 ohm on my pair of re sx 18s  and it was pushing them realley good - i thought swaping on a ddm2a at .5 ohm would instantly give me more loud because of the extra power  ( about 600w more than saz1500 was giving ) but i could not even tell by ear if louder with either amp.usualy to feel louder by a good amount you have to double power....    so if you had your box designed to play at 1800w and you jumped up to 3600w then you would need to re design the box to play off of that amount of power....       smaller boxes take more power than larger boxes - but larger boxes can be more efficent than smaller...       it has to do with the air spring effect on the cone of the subs -  as the cone moves in and out - the air traped inside the box will stretch and limit the movment of the cones - is good for mechanical throw - as subs could tear spiders / or smash the coils against the back of the motors - or even jump the coil right out of the motor if the box is designed to not limit the mechanical motion of the subs...      but yeah 400w increase on the box should still be good</blockquote>

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